The Beatles Ashram in Rishikesh: A Walk Through Music History

At the end of our time in Rishikesh, India, I visited the Beatles Ashram. I went here alone because Sephie was sick. I was drawn to this place because I love old, abandoned places, and this one has such a long and storied history. It is a place where the world’s biggest band wrote scores of their most famous songs while meditating and embracing their spiritual side. The journey there was quite long, as I walked from our hotel (Swiss Hilltop) to the Ashram itself. The walk alone was about an hour long, along the busy highway leading to the bridge that crosses the Ganges and then through the area known as Lakshman Jhula. This was my favorite part of Rishikesh, and it would be the last time I walked through there (until I hopefully return one day). 

History and Background of the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram

The Beatles Ashram, formerly the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi Ashram, was founded in the mid-1960s by Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, who brought Transcendental Meditation to the West. It quickly became an international magnet for spiritual seekers and celebrities. People came to meditate, attend lectures, absorb spiritual teachings, and get away from the noise of modern life. For more than two decades, it thrived. That changed when the lease on the land expired in the early 1990s and maintenance fell apart. For years, it sat abandoned, swallowed by the jungle, and only curious adventurers snuck in. In 2015, it was revamped as a tourist site under the Rajaji Tiger Reserve. Today, it is a peaceful ruin with graffiti, nature taking over, and an eerie charm that whispers tales of enlightenment that have faded. 

This place was huge back in the day, and there is a ton of information about it on the walls of the information center near the canteen. 

The Beatles Time Here

In February 1968, The Beatles went to Rishikesh to escape fame, the press, legal battles, and to find spiritual clarity. They arrived to meditate, write music, and reboot. George Harrison called it “a breath of fresh air for us.” They stayed around two months in simple dome meditation huts alongside other guests like Mia Farrow and Donovan. They wrote over 30 songs during this time, and many found their way onto the White Album. Paul McCartney later said being away from constant pressure made the creative juices flow freely.

It was not all peaceful, though. There were reports of disagreements with the Maharishi and internal delays in the ashram administration. Those tensions, plus media gossip, led the band to leave earlier than planned. Still, the time changed them. It opened their eyes to Indian culture and spirituality. Lennon reportedly said after, “India was an inspiration, not a salvation.” The creative outpouring during those weeks left a lasting legacy in both music and popular fascination with transcendental meditation.

Exploring the Ashram Today

I walked through the deserted grounds. It is a sprawling labyrinth of crumbling meditation domes, lecture halls, and mossy paths. I stood where the Beatles once strummed guitars, and I explored the Maharishi’s faded yet imposing residence. The meditation caves look like stone igloos. The auditorium where they may have jammed is empty but echoes creativity. The old kitchen and dining hall still smell vaguely of curry in the air. Buildings are open for exploring. Roofs are climbable, basements are visitable. Monkeys run the show upstairs. Some of the houses are closed off with warning signs saying that they are unsafe to enter. It feels like walking through someone’s psychedelic daydream gone quiet. 

Some of the most impressive parts to me were:

• The little "igloo hut" where the Beatles stayed.

• The massive house that the founder lived in, located on the cliffside overlooking the Ganges.

• The apartments with graffiti on walls, rooms that housed guests, and the rooftop, which I climbed to, with domes covered in beautiful art. 

• The way the jungle has slowly taken over everything. I wonder when this place will be fully taken back by nature.

Cost and How I Got There

Entry was about ₹600 for foreigners (about 7 USD) and ₹150 for Indian citizens. Worth it if history, music, or ruins fascinate you. The hour walk from Swiss Hilltop was scenic but hot. Make sure to bring water. You can also take a tuk-tuk. For some reason, I felt like walking. 

What to Expect

• Monkeys everywhere. They treat this place like their estate. They will judge you.

• Graffiti and art. Instagram fuel everywhere, just beware the broken windows.

• Echoes and silence. At times, it is completely quiet. Other times you’ll hear your own footsteps and wonder if the ghosts of this place still linger.

• Climbing optional. Rooftops offer views of the Ganges and jungle canopy, but watch your step!

• There is a restroom area and a canteen. 

• Quiet but social. A few tourists, some locals. Morning is when I went, and I think that it was good. There were few people and I could get amazing pictures and videos without having to try hard. However, it seemed to get busier as the day went on. The busiest place by far was the hut where the Beatles stayed (it was also the last place I saw. I should have went there first).