A Week in Rishikesh: Exploring the Birthplace of Yoga And So Much More!

When we planned our India trip, Rishikesh was one place we were not going to skip. This city is known as the place for yoga, spirituality, and Hindu pilgrimage. It’s been attracting gurus, seekers, and, yes, even The Beatles, for decades. But we weren’t just here to chase history or to cross something off our bucket list. We wanted somewhere with mountains, nature, and that kind of calming vibe that makes you feel like you should immediately start journaling in a linen robe while sipping herbal tea.

We took the train from Delhi. That alone was quite an adventure, especially trying to buy our ticket. There were a few less-than-savory tour office people who tried their absolute hardest to not let us get to the second floor of the train station where the tourist office is located. They got pretty irate with us when we acted like we knew where we were going (which we ended up being right). Sadly, this overcharging issue is a huge problem in India.

When I got to the top and started to buy our tickets, I realized we forgot our passports, so I had to rush back to our room in Delhi while the ladies waited for me. Eventually, I arrived back only to realize that we did not have enough money for the tickets and could not use our card. So it was off to look for an ATM. Sadly, there was no cash in the one's close by, so we made our way around the city in an effort to find one. This kind of hassle is part of the India experience. After a whole day of trying to get our tickets, we were finally able to secure a spot on the train.

The nearest railway station is Haridwar, about 25 kilometers from Rishikesh. From Delhi, you can hop on a train to Haridwar, which takes around 4–6 hours, then grab a taxi or bus for the last stretch. The train we took was sleek and modern, unlike many of the longer sleeper trains that we were used to in India. The scenery of fields and farms, and small towns was lovely to behold as our train headed north towards the Himalayas. 

Highlights of Rishikesh (Spoilers perhaps?)

• The food! So many things I've never seen before (and this was my third time to India). Amazing food everywhere!

• Crossing a bridge that sways over the Ganges as the music from the Artis play in the distance.

• Watching the sun set over the Ganges as you eat a thali in a rooftop restaurant.

• Being charged by a random cow and living to tell the story!

• Talking to a local on a motorbike for 10 minutes who wanted us to go hang out with him and stay at his place (he recently told my wife he misses us). 

• Exploring the derelict Beatles' Ashram. 

• Saffron Lassi (I got this golden colored yogurt drink while out and about all by my lonesome--SO GOOD!)

• And so much more! (Read on).

Staying in the Hills at Swiss Hilltop Cottage

We stayed at Swiss Hilltop Cottage, and let me tell you, this was not your average budget backpacker crash pad. The room was huge, clean, and had something we almost never get when traveling in Asia: a bathtub. I’m talking full-on soak-yourself-into-a-raisin luxury (the only issue was the lack of enough hot water to get into a real raisiny state). There was also a little sunroom with chairs, perfect for lazy mornings, and hammocks dotted around the property where you could melt into a puddle of bliss. They even had a little library with books in a few languages. And a restaurant with a pretty good selection of food that we could get delivered right up to our room! Basically, they made it very easy for us to not leave.

The location was ideal. Close enough to walk into town and cross the bridge to the temples, but far enough that we didn’t fall asleep to the sounds of motorbikes and honking (as we had gotten used to while in New Delhi).

Eating Our Way Through Rishikesh

Let’s just say I have no regrets about the amount of dosa and thali I consumed. Zero. The city is packed with incredible restaurants, but the real magic is the street food. Imagine walking past sizzling pakoras, golden jalebi dripping in syrup, pani puri that explodes in your mouth, and steaming cups of masala chai. If you don't try the street food here, why even bother? There's nothing like sitting on the steps of the Ganges and sipping a steaming hot chai tea in a ceramic cup. 

India's Shopping Heaven

If you like shopping, Rishikesh is dangerous in the best way. There are shops selling textiles, journals, instruments, incense, perfumes… basically, all the “I definitely need this” travel souvenirs you can imagine. I may or may not have justified buying more than I could fit in my bag (actually, that was Beverly and Sephie. They could not get enough!). Bonus points for the fact that the vendors here were way less pushy than in other places we’ve been. You can actually browse without being guilt-tripped into buying something you don’t want.

I must add that I bought a lovely camel leather journal to write about my journey and beyond in. I have not been so good about keeping it up, so I really need to get to that...

Temples, Bridges, and the Ganges Ferry

We decided to visit the famous Tera Manzil Temple on the other side of the Ganges. I was dying to walk across the main pedestrian bridge, but… it was under construction. I was truly bummed when I discovered that. Instead, we took the ferry, which was cheap and easy enough, but be warned, the wait can be long.

This side of the city is alive. There are temples, ashrams, ghats, and nightly aarti ceremonies by the river. There’s so much street food you’ll wish you had a second stomach. And some of my favorite moments were the simplest: sitting on the steps by the Ganges, sipping hot chai with milk, and watching life go by (I think I already mentioned that though...).

Solo Time at the Beatles Ashram

When Beverly and Sephie got sick, I went exploring on my own and visited the famous Beatles Ashram.  This place is steeped in history and creativity, so it deserves its own post. But I’ll say this: the area around it is like a buffet of spiritual energy. Temples everywhere, yoga classes on every corner, live music drifting out of cafes. If you want to feel like you’re in a real-life Eat, Pray, Love montage, this is your spot.

The Time a Cow Tried to Kill Me

Yes, cows roam freely here. Yes, it’s adorable… until it’s not. One afternoon, I was minding my business, walking with my family along one of Rishikesh's main roads, when a cow decided I was a threat and charged at me. I did that awkward panic dance you do when you can’t figure out which way to run. Thankfully, I got out of the way, but let’s just say I now have a healthy respect for all bovines (and started to really avoid them altogether).

Spiritual Lessons and Pranayama Breathing

One of the highlights of Rishikesh was taking a pranayama meditation class with a guru. We had a class on the top floor of our hotel overlooking the Himalayas. We were the only students there, which made it even more special. We learned breathing techniques, talked about Hinduism and Indian spirituality, and got a crash course in why yoga is more than just fancy stretching. It was calming, eye-opening, and exactly the kind of thing you come to Rishikesh for.

Leaving Rishikesh (the sad part)

Our week flew by. Between the food, the shopping, the riverside chai sessions, and the occasional wildlife encounter, Rishikesh became one of the highlights of our trip to India. It’s the kind of place that gets under your skin in the best way, and I left already plotting a return trip.

If you’re wondering whether to go. Yes! Do it. Just… watch out for the cows.

What People Are Loving about Rishikesh

Safe and welcoming for solo and female travelers
On Reddit’s r/SoloTravel_India forum, one traveler raved, “Rishikesh is totally safe and one of the most beautiful places in India.” Another wrote, “Rishikesh was a magical place… generally safe, but a little caution helps.” It’s one of those rare destinations that both seasoned backpackers and first-time solo travelers recommend for its friendly vibe.

Budget heaven meets soul healing
According to the travel guide Mrityunja Yoga, Rishikesh will “stretch your rupee beautifully," whether you’re staying in cheap but cozy hostels, eating endless vegetarian thalis, or taking yoga classes for the price of a fancy coffee back home.

A mix of spiritual calm and adventure thrills
As No Trace Travel points out, Rishikesh isn’t just about meditation and chanting. You can also get your adrenaline fix with river rafting, bungee jumping, or rock-climbing in the Himalayan foothills.

The anti-party town (in a good way)
One guide from Mrityunja Yoga sums it up perfectly: “A city built for clean living, no bars, no nightlife, just peace… a great place to detox from overstimulation.”

Cafe life and unfiltered vibes
Reddit travelers rave about cafés like Ganga View Cafe and hidden gems around Tapovan and Kyarki, where you can sip chai while looking out over the Ganges. One commenter called it “the ultimate place to just exist with a view.”

What Makes People Wince

Crowds, traffic, and chaos (especially in peak season)
As one frustrated Redditor put it, “Extremely crowded, traffic jams everywhere… the peace of Rishikesh is not there during this time.”

Timing is everything
Both Yona Unbound and Reddit users warn against visiting during monsoon season or during massive Hindu festivals like Savan in July, unless you enjoy sweaty crowds and an extra dose of chaos.

Random “spiritual” scams
Travelers on No Trace Travel and Pilgrimage Tour caution against self-proclaimed gurus offering “miracle healings” or “energy cleanses.” They might just cleanse your wallet instead.

Basic infrastructure and hygiene issues
One Redditor described public washrooms as “filthy,” complained about aggressive toll-road crowds, and mentioned that hygiene in certain areas “left a lot to be desired.”

Expect noise and sensory overload
According to Yona Unbound, you’ll hear a constant soundtrack of honking motorcycles, spontaneous drumbeats, and wandering cows. For some, it’s charming. For others, it’s earplug time. By this point, I had learned to take my noise-cancelling airpods with me everywhere, and what a game-changer that was!