Varanasi: A Journey Through the Eternal City During the Maha Kumbh Mela

There are cities that you visit and soon forget, and there are cities that never leave you.

Varanasi, also known as Kashi or Benares, is not just one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is an overwhelming, immersive experience. A city that pulses with life, devotion, smoke, and holy river water. Yes, in the Hindu tradition, the Ganges is a deity.

It is chaotic and sacred, ancient and alive, maddening and beautiful, all at once. It has been on my bucket list for years. Long have I read stories about the burning ghats, pilgrimages, and lore that surrounded this otherworldly place. I imagined alleys and rituals and the mixing of life and death. But I never imagined that I would finally visit Varanasi during such an auspicious time. Yet, in 2024, my dream finally came to be. 

We visited Varanasi during the Maha Kumbh Mela, a time when millions of pilgrims converge on sacred sites across India to bathe in the holy waters of the Ganges. To say the city was packed would be a gross understatement. Varanasi during Maha Kumbh Mela is an intense sensory experience. It is a blur of color, incense, fire, prayer, and skin.

But before we get to our adventure, let’s take a step back and understand why this city is so important and why so many people go to such great lengths to be there.

The Timeless Spiritual Importance of Varanasi

Varanasi is the spiritual heart of India. According to Hindu tradition, it was founded by Lord Shiva himself, making it one of the holiest places on earth for Hindus. It's believed that dying in Varanasi or having one's ashes scattered in the Ganges River here offers moksha, liberation from the cycle of rebirth.

The city is also significant for Buddhists and Jains. Nearby Sarnath is where Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment. Jains believe it to be the birthplace of their seventh Tirthankara. And for seekers and wanderers, mystics and poets, Varanasi has been a muse for millennia.

Every day, the city hums with spiritual activity. At dawn, pilgrims perform ritual baths in the Ganges. In the evenings, the Ganga Aarti is performed at the Dashashwamedh Ghat, a choreographed ritual of fire and chanting that draws large crowds. Life and death exist side by side. On one ghat, people pray for blessings, and on another, the dead are cremated as sacred mantras fill the air.

What is the Kumbh Mela?

The Kumbh Mela is the largest religious gathering on Earth. It happens every 12 years in four different locations: Allahabad (Prayagraj), Haridwar, Nashik, and Ujjain. It is based on a celestial alignment that marks a time when the Ganges is believed to be particularly sacred.

Maha Kumbh Mela, the greatest of these gatherings, happens every 144 years. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime spiritual journey for many Hindus.

Though Varanasi is not traditionally one of the four official Kumbh locations, it becomes a natural spillover for pilgrims, especially during the Mela when crowds travel across North India visiting multiple holy cities. During this time, the energy in Varanasi becomes even more amplified.

Our Journey to Varanasi During the Maha Kumbh Mela

We arrived in Varanasi from Rishikesh by train, and I don’t think we could have been fully prepared for what greeted us.

When the train pulled into Varanasi Junction, the platform was a sea of people. I had never seen so many people squeezed into such a tight space in my life. We were almost crushed trying to get off the train. Elbows were everywhere, the shouting was constant, and we had to cling to each other just to stay together.

It was suffocating and disorienting. The kind of travel that I often sought out. Yet, in my current emotional state, I was overwhelmed. I just wanted to shower and get some food. I wanted to be settled. India is often exhausting any day of the year, but this was on another level!

Later, we would read in the news that some pilgrims had been trampled to death around the same time we were there. The warnings weren’t exaggerated. There were genuine safety concerns, and we were on high alert the entire time, especially since we were traveling with our 11-year-old daughter. 

Once we made it out, the streets were a little better. We pushed through narrow alleyways that were so jammed with people we often had to stop and wait 10–15 minutes just to take a few steps. There was simply no room to move. Every step felt like part of a pilgrimage. Since the center of the city was so packed, we had to cart our luggage through stifling hot streets for about half an hour before reaching our small hotel. 

Despite the overwhelming numbers, there was an undercurrent of joy and reverence. People were singing, chanting, and offering flowers into the river. Sadhu monks, painted in ash and adorned in saffron cloth, walked by with their tridents. Women in bright saris balanced offerings on their heads. The smell of incense and firewood was constant. Every now and then, someone would come up and ask to take a photo with us. We counted dozens of requests. Even with millions of people, we saw very few other foreigners.

We eventually made it to the Ghats, the terraced steps that lead down to the river. And what a sight it was.

The Ganges: Sacred, Surreal, and Overwhelming

The Ganges River, the lifeblood of Varanasi, was covered in smoke and fog, mostly from the hundreds of small diesel-powered boats ferrying pilgrims across the water. The fumes hung heavy in the air. It was hard to breathe, and at times it felt apocalyptic.

Still, people were bathing, praying, and crying. Some carried the ashes of their departed loved ones. Others sat still in silent meditation. We saw a few naked holy men covered in grey ash. It was a spiritual climax, a moment of deep devotion on a river that is both beautiful and polluted, sacred and struggling.

The visual of fire-lit ceremonies, bell chimes, chants echoing from the ghats, and millions gathered in collective reverence was something I’ll never forget. No photograph could truly capture it.

Historical Layers of Varanasi

Varanasi’s documented history goes back over 3,000 years, but many believe the city is even older. Even eternal, as locals often say.

It has been a center of learning, religion, and art for centuries. In the Gupta period, it was a hub of Sanskrit scholarship. The famed poet and philosopher Tulsidas, who wrote the Ramcharitmanas, lived here. It was also a seat of Silk weaving and crafts, and today you can still find Banarasi silk saris woven by hand on centuries-old looms.

Temples are everywhere, with the most famous being the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Shiva. Though it was destroyed and rebuilt many times throughout history (most notably by Mughal rulers), it remains a powerful symbol of resilience.

Varanasi was also deeply affected by British colonialism. The British took control of the city in the 18th century and built new infrastructure, but the ancient spiritual core remained untouched.

Highlights of Our Trip

Some of the things that stand out to me from this journey are:

•Enjoying the sunset from our rooftop balcony at our hotel. We found a place close to the river and the views were truly spectacular.

•Talking to locals, who were genuinely interested in where we were from and why we decided to visit India, especially during this time in history.

•Weaving through the crowds was an experience. I had never been around so many people in such a small area. This made some things, like getting foo,d next to impossible, but it's something that I won't forget.

•Sitting under a tree on the steps of the ghats and watching the locals and the boats on the water.

•Perhaps disturbing, but how the smog made the sky around the river turn pitch black at sunset, as if a giant cloud would devour us all.

•My first night in Varanasi, after dinner, I went down to visit the ghats when it was eerily silent. There were only a few people out. It was completely silent, and the fog and darkness made seeing the other side of the river impossible. It felt like I was standing by the sea. 

What to Know Before You Visit

If you're planning a trip to Varanasi, especially during a major religious event like Kumbh Mela, here’s what you should keep in mind:

1. Prepare for Crowds

No matter the season, Varanasi is busy. Yet, during Kumbh Mela, it's on another level. Expect long waits, cramped spaces, and sensory overload.

2. Travel Light

Navigating the city with large bags is nearly impossible. Keep your belongings close and minimal.

3. Stay Near the Ghats

Accommodations near Assi Ghat, Dashashwamedh Ghat, or Manikarnika Ghat give you easy access to the river and all the action.

4. Watch a Ganga Aarti

Every evening, head to Dashashwamedh Ghat for the Ganga Aarti ceremony. It’s spiritual, beautiful, and unforgettable.

5. Take a Morning Boat Ride

If you want to experience the Ganges more peacefully, do it at dawn. The fog, the orange sun, and the sound of temple bells create a surreal atmosphere.

6. Eat Carefully

Stick to hot, freshly cooked vegetarian food to avoid foodborne illness. Street food is amazing, but be cautious.

A City That Changes You

Varanasi is not easy. It can exhaust you. It can challenge your limits. But it also has the power to transform.

In its chaos is a profound sense of peace. In its noise, sacred silence. In the decay, divine beauty. It is a city where life and death shake hands daily, and everything exists in one sacred breath.

For us, being part of Maha Kumbh Mela in Varanasi was a spiritual, emotional, and even physical odyssey. It taught us patience, perspective, and humility. We left dusty, tired, and overwhelmed. Yet grateful to have crossed off something from our bucket list. Would I go back? Yes, but maybe during a calmer time.