On our journey to Cyprus, we wanted to see some interesting sites. As I looked at the things to do, I came upon Northern Cyprus and Famagusta. I had vaguely remembered reading about it or seeing it somewhere. But I had no idea it was here, on the island of Cyprus. Yet, I thought that I would likely miss out on it. Going to Northern Cyprus seemed like a challenge. Generally, such places are hard to get into; you have to get visas in advance, and they can even be a bit difficult to get around. Yet, when walking through Larnaca, I saw that tour companies were offering tours to Famagusta, so I thought, "Why not?"
I had decided to enquire after we made our rounds around the island. In fact, by this time, we had actually gone into Northern Cyprus on foot, which was totally unexpected (more on that later). The cost was reasonable, and the idea of exploring an abandoned city was too good to pass up. I’ve always been fascinated by places frozen in time, where life once thrived but suddenly stopped. This trip would also include other key sites in Northern Cyprus, which made it even more appealing.
A few days earlier, we had ventured into Northern Cyprus to visit the capital, Nicosia. That city was unlike anywhere else I’ve been. It’s divided in two: half in the Republic of Cyprus and half in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Crossing the border on foot felt surreal, almost like stepping back into a different era. The shift in architecture, atmosphere, and even the smell of the streets reminded me of walking through parts of Türkiye or Egypt. I may even write a lil' post on that in the future, so stay tuned!
On the morning of our Famagusta tour, we set off early. The first stops included a beautiful monastery and ancient ruins that told stories of Cyprus’s deep, layered past. But the real anticipation was building for our main destination, a place that has fascinated urban explorers and historians for decades: Famagusta.
A Brief History of Famagusta
Famagusta’s history is a tapestry woven from centuries of conquest, trade, and conflict. Located on the eastern coast of Cyprus, it was once one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean. In the Middle Ages, especially under Lusignan rule in the 14th century, it was a bustling trade hub where merchants from Venice, Genoa, and beyond would gather. The wealth from this period funded the construction of grand churches, fortifications, and palatial buildings, many of which still stand..or rather, their shells do, in the modern city center.
The city’s fortunes began to change in the late 16th century when the Ottoman Empire seized control from the Venetians after a long siege. For centuries afterward, Famagusta remained under Ottoman administration, slowly declining in prominence but never losing its strategic importance.
In the modern era, especially during the 1960s and early 1970s, Famagusta experienced a golden age as a tourist destination. Its district of Varosha became the crown jewel of Cypriot tourism, attracting celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor and Brigitte Bardot. Luxury hotels lined the beach, fashionable boutiques filled the streets, and sunseekers came from across Europe to enjoy its turquoise waters.
But everything changed in 1974, when a coup in Cyprus backed by the Greek military junta prompted a military intervention by Turkey. Turkish forces advanced on Famagusta, and its Greek Cypriot residents fled in haste, leaving behind homes, cars, and personal belongings. The Varosha district was fenced off by the Turkish military and remained sealed for decades, becoming one of the world’s most famous ghost cities.
In recent years, parts of Varosha have been reopened to visitors under Turkish Cypriot control. But much of it remains off-limits, a haunting reminder of how politics and war can freeze a place in time.
Exploring the Inhabited Part of Famagusta
Our tour began in the still-living heart of Famagusta, a sharp contrast to the ghostly silence I knew awaited us later. This part of the city is vibrant and full of life. The streets are shaded by trees, lined with cafes, and punctuated by grand mosques that were once magnificent Gothic cathedrals.
One of the most striking examples is the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, originally the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas. Its Gothic façade, with its pointed arches and delicate tracery, looks like it belongs in medieval France. Yet inside, the Christian iconography has long been replaced with Islamic features. This blend of cultures and histories is what makes Famagusta so fascinating.
We had some free time to wander through the cobblestone streets, peeking into artisan shops and enjoying the quiet hum of daily life. We grabbed a quick lunch, a thin-crust pizza at a small café near the central square. It was a nice way to relax and fill our hungry bellies!
Entering Varosha – The Abandoned District
After exploring the main city, we boarded the bus and headed toward the reason I had signed up for the trip: Varosha. The approach is strange. You can see the tops of decaying high-rises looming over modern streets, like ghosts of another era. We were given a list of rules as we went inside. We passed a military checkpoint. They take security here pretty seriously. I was told this place just opened to tourism quite recently, so talk about being at the right place at the right time!
Once inside the open section, the scale of abandonment hits you immediately. Whole blocks of hotels, apartment buildings, and shops stand empty, windows shattered, paint peeling, balconies rusting. It’s eerily silent except for the wind and the distant sound of waves. The air feels heavy with memory, as if the place itself remembers the people who once filled it.
It reminded me strongly of my visit to Chernobyl a few years ago. It is that same sense of a place where life suddenly stopped. But here, the sea glitters just meters away, and the sunshine makes the decay somehow even more surreal. Unlike Chernobyl, entry into the buildings is strictly forbidden. Our guide explained that the structures are unstable and could collapse at any time.
Walking down the beachfront promenade, I could see how vast Varosha really is. The part open to the public is just a fraction of the district. As you step onto the beach, the view is almost absurd: turquoise waters, white sand, and people playing in the surf, all while behind you, the skyline is a jagged row of rotting high-rises. It’s beauty and desolation side by side.
Why Famagusta is Worth Visiting
Famagusta is more than just a stop for those curious about abandoned places. It’s a city where layers of history are visible on every street corner, where Gothic cathedrals became mosques, where medieval walls still stand watch over the harbor, and where a modern ghost city whispers about the fragility of peace.
For me, the most striking thing was how normal life continues right next to such haunting emptiness. In one direction, children play, fishermen cast lines, and shops sell fresh pastries. On the other side, there’s nothing but silence and decay. That juxtaposition stays with you long after you leave.
Visiting Famagusta is not just about seeing something unusual. It’s about feeling the passage of time, the effects of conflict, and the resilience of a city that has endured centuries of change.
10 Interesting Things to See in and Around Famagusta
If you are in the area, check out some of the nearby sites.
1. Varosha Beach
This is the most striking part of Famagusta. The beach itself is gorgeous, with golden sand and crystal-clear water. Standing here offers the ultimate contrast — the beautiful Mediterranean ahead of you and the abandoned skyline of Varosha looming behind. You can walk along the designated paths that run beside the ruined hotels and peer into a world that has been left untouched for nearly 50 years. It’s both relaxing and deeply thought-provoking.
2. Othello Castle
Named after Shakespeare’s tragic character (who was supposedly inspired by a Venetian governor of Cyprus), Othello Castle is a fortress built by the Lusignans and later reinforced by the Venetians. Its thick walls, moat, and towers make it an impressive sight. Inside, you can explore courtyards, staircases, and views over the city. History lovers will appreciate its strategic role in defending the harbor. It’s also a great spot for photography, especially during golden hour.
3. Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque
Once the grand Gothic Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, this structure was converted into a mosque during Ottoman rule. The architecture is stunning, with soaring pointed arches, intricate stonework, and a façade that feels straight out of medieval Europe. Inside, the Gothic design blends with Islamic elements, creating a unique fusion. It’s an active mosque, so visitors should dress respectfully.
4. Venetian Walls of Famagusta
These massive fortifications completely encircle the old city and are among the best-preserved medieval walls in the Mediterranean. Built to withstand heavy artillery, they feature bastions, gates, and a dry moat. Walking along them gives you a sense of the city’s former importance and defensive strength. You can enter through the Land Gate and follow the paths along the walls for sweeping views.
5. Namik Kemal Dungeon and Museum
This small but fascinating museum is located in the building where the famous Turkish poet Namik Kemal was imprisoned in the 19th century. The exhibits tell his story and provide insight into Ottoman-era life in Cyprus. The stone cells are atmospheric, and the museum is a quick but memorable stop for those interested in literature and history.
6. Saint Barnabas Monastery
Located just outside Famagusta, this monastery dates back to the 5th century and is dedicated to Saint Barnabas, the patron saint of Cyprus. The complex includes a church, cloisters, and an archaeological museum housing artifacts from ancient Salamis and the surrounding area. The grounds are peaceful, and the blend of history and spirituality makes it a must-visit.
7. Salamis Ruins
An ancient city dating back to the 11th century BC, Salamis was once the most important city-state in Cyprus. Today, you can wander among its Roman-era remains, including a gymnasium, theater, and intricate mosaics. The site is expansive, so take your time exploring. The combination of history and scenic coastal location is unforgettable.
8. Palm Tree-Lined Streets of Modern Famagusta
While the ghost city gets most of the attention, the inhabited part of Famagusta is charming in its own right. Stroll down its palm-shaded boulevards, enjoy local cafes, and browse small shops selling crafts and souvenirs. This area provides a vibrant contrast to the melancholy of Varosha. I was pleasantly surprised by how lovely this place is!
9. The Sea Gate (Porta del Mare)
This ornate Venetian gate once served as the main entrance from the port into the walled city. Decorated with the winged lion of Saint Mark, it’s a reminder of Famagusta’s Venetian heritage. Standing here, you can imagine the bustling maritime trade that once passed through.
10. Glapsides Beach
Just north of the city, this beach offers a more traditional seaside experience than Varosha. It’s popular with locals and tourists alike, with calm waters, soft sand, and beachside taverns serving fresh seafood. If you want to swim without the haunting backdrop of abandoned buildings, this is the place to go.










No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.