Welcome To Delhi: Staying in Paharganj

This was my third time to Delhi, but I don't think that time number 2 counts, as it was just an overnighter on the way from Chennai to Nepal. Nepal, now that was a trip that I'll have to talk about in future posts.

On our first trip to Delhi, my wife, daughter, and I traveled with my sister.

After a bus groping, we were greeted by the meanest group of transgender people I have ever met. In Thailand, transgender people are super fun, friendly, and so outgoing. These folks were not (of course, I can't speak for all transgender people in India! That would be unfair). They got a bit mean and manhandled us. It hurt! We barely escaped in an autorickshaw (or tuk-tuk) thanks to an overzealous driver who was hellbent on ripping us off.

Third Time’s a Charm-ish

This trip started quite a bit smoother, thanks to the modern Delhi metro system that connects the airport to the area where we were staying. It is known as Paharganj. This is the same neighborhood as we stayed in before when we visited Delhi for the very first time way back in 2016. Paharganj is a crazy labyrinth: budget hotels piled atop one another, alleyways that seem to defy geometry, and motorbike riders that can't keep their hands off the horn. It’s so loud you can visibly feel your sanity eroding. It's where I learned to keep my AirPods in my ears at all times. However, Sephie could not stand the noise, so I gave them to her, which helped a LOT. Families of monkeys swing from wires overhead while cows wander the streets. Let's just say this place is a world away from what many have ever experienced. 

Let's Talk About Paharganj, Shall We?

The Market and Food Scene

Walking through Main Bazaar, the crowd wraps around you like a clingy octopus. Shops sell everything you'll see on the rest of your time in India. These include but are not limited to: tea blends, leather goods, harem pants,  religious books, spices, and odd trinkets. Street food pours out of every possible crevice. I'm talking about plate after plate of momos, endless dosa, vats filled with dripping curry, and a bevy of fried things I can’t even name. You’re bombarded with colors, smells, and sounds until your brain staggers. I could not help but try everything that I could get my vegetarian hands on. Lucky for me, India is a vegetarian paradise! 

The food here is confusingly great. At Sitaram Diwan Chand, you can inhale legendary chole bhature for a literal buck or two. The flakes of fried bread soak in curry so well they practically get married (and who doesn't love an Indian wedding?). Absolutely worth doubling down the cholesterol for. Meanwhile, at Multani Dhanda’s kachaori corner (“Multan Moth Bhandar, Gali No. 6”), you're served insanely savory fried pockets that locals swear are the best in Delhi. Then there’s the momo fiasco: we once got the wrong order, and were charged twice for the wrong dumplings. I just smiled and let it be, because arguing over momos is not how I choose to channel my inner Gandhi.

We also liked the Krishna Rooftop Cafe (pictured above). Just be careful not to hit your head on the way to the top. Lucky for us, we got a seat on the rooftop balcony both times we visited. The views are spectacular! You can see the city light up at sunset and the throngs of people on the streets below. The food is good, but a bit more expensive than other places (that view is going to cost you). Overall, I recommend it. 

If you are into cleanliness, look away. During an early morning walk, we saw people mixing pots of curry by hand. You kind of just have to vibe with that here. You'll likely get sick, and that's part of the adventure. 

Hidden Gems and Alleyway Charms

You walk past the noise, step into Tilak Gali behind Imperial Cinema, and suddenly you’re in an alternate reality. Crumbling havelis hint at old world grandeur, with brick walls murmuring stories of forgotten Delhi. Jackson’s Bookstore has been hawking pre-owned wisdom for forty years. You'll find tarot decks, philosophy books, and Beat poetry, all for the price of cheap chai. The owner knows where every hidden stash is tucked. If your soul wants off the main road, this is your exit ramp.

Then there’s Qadam Sharif, a tiny 14th-century shrine tucked into a Paharganj alley. Built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq for his late son, the mausoleum now houses a mosque, madrasa, and a quiet dignity that few who get here appreciate. You’ll need to pause and listen. You may hear the wood creaking as the foot traffic spills in to whisper prayers. It’s a rare breath of stillness.

What People Say

Travelers often wax poetic about how “authentically chaotic” Paharganj is, calling it a “backpacker’s paradise” and a “raw collage of old and new.” One TripAdvisor review called it a fascinating maze of bargains. A Redditor, however, bluntly warned: “Paharganj is filled with weird people and crackheads. Be careful.” Another described being scammed via bogus menus and extortionate taxis. There’s a fair bit of fear, not unfair, but for me, it’s part of the adrenaline. Plus, scandalously cheap goods make it a fun festival of shopping bliss. 

What Makes Paharganj Extra Special

You’ll find calmer places later in your trip. Goa can do lazy sunsets; Rishikesh offers spiritual peace. Paharganj gives you visceral, chaotic life. It assaults your senses, makes you bargain like your life depends on it, fills your belly with spicy goodness, and slaps the “You’re in India” sticker firmly on your soul. Love it or hate it, this place never lets you slide into bland touristism.

Ten Things to See Around Paharganj 

1. Red Fort

Red Fort is an unmistakable symbol of India’s Mughal past, built by Shah Jahan in the 17th century. Its red sandstone walls, majestic gates, and sprawling courtyards are visually stunning and monumentally historic. You can stand where warriors once strutted, feeling the weight of centuries. The museum inside holds relics and Mughal-era artifacts. At night, the sound-and-light show brings the fort’s history to vivid, almost kitschy life.

2. Chandni Chowk

Right next to Red Fort, Chandni Chowk is Old Delhi personified. It is chaotic, fragrant, hyper-colored, and utterly captivating. Rickshaw rides through the narrow lanes are still the best way to absorb the madness. You’ll munch your way through paratha, jalebi, jalapeno chai, and possibly an identity crisis. The shops sell everything from electronics to street jewelry to wedding saris. Every step you take is layered with history, spice, and stamina-testing crowds.

3. Gauri Shankar Temple

A short stumble from Paharganj is the Gauri Shankar Temple, nearly 800 years old and dedicated to Shiva. Its simplicity strikes you: not blinged-out, not ornamental, but centered and austere in its stone elegance. You can meditate in relative quiet, beneath the old lingam carved from black stone. Old devotees move about, exuding calm, reciting prayers. It’s a spiritual stop that catches your breathing, tensing heart, and overloaded senses.

4. Qadam Sharif

This 14th-century dargah was originally made as a tomb for Feroz Shah Tughlaq’s son, later boxed into a complex with a mosque and madrasa. Its battered walls and heavy gates feel like a secret handshake from the past. Inside, the air is thick with prayers and calm. Few tourists go here, so it’s a rare lull of history and quiet. You’ll feel the solemn hush of centuries shifting softly beneath your feet.

5. Ramakrishna Mission Ashram

Founded in 1927 by Swami Vivekananda’s followers, this ashram is an oasis of disciplined calm. Inside, worship sessions are quiet; the library is enormous and scholarly, filled with philosophy texts and spiritual guidance. The reading hall invites you to slow down. It's like emotionally unplugging from the marketplace next door. The ashram’s aura is centered, considerate, and calming. Your soul will thank you for stopping here.

6. Jama Masjid

One of the largest mosques in India, Jama Masjid’s red sandstone grandeur is impossible to miss, even from Paharganj. You climb steps into a vast courtyard that holds 25,000 worshippers. Inside, ornate marble mihrabs and lofty minarets swallow you in scale. You can rent a robe (if needed), and the view from the minaret is dizzying, a rooftop Disneyland of Old Delhi. It’s powerful, spiritual, and atmospheric. I had visited this during my first time and we just missed it the second time, sadly. 

7. Naya Mandir (Jain Temple)

Built in 1807, this is one of the first Jain temples with a shikhara allowed under Mughal rule. It was a bold architectural act. The marble interiors glow in candlelight, revealing ornate carvings and manuscripts. It’s quiet, ornate and completely different from the chaos outside. Devotees recite softly; the temple’s clarity calms your mind like a mental reset. Quite surreal in contrast to the filthy street corners outside. I just love such juxtapositions! 

8. Agrasen ki Baoli

A hidden stepwell near Connaught Place, this 14th-century water reservoir is architecturally neat and peaceful. Stone steps descend into cool quiet, away from car horns and bargain noise. Filmmakers love the shadows and symmetry, and you will too. Legend says the air here is charged with echoes of history, allowing for introspection, or just stalking sweet Insta shots. Ghost hunters also claim to feel things. Spooky or serene, either vibe works. 

9. Garden of Five Senses

About 20 acres of curated peace in Saket, not far from Paharganj. This garden loops through Mughal garden themes, bamboo courts, solar-powered installations, and lily pools. It's an assault on your senses in a good way: smells, sights, textures collide in natural harmony. The Mayan Labna Arch replica is stunning and surprises you mid-flowerbed. Vendors sell chai in tiny clay cups as you stroll sculpted paths. It’s a perfect place to reboot the soul after market madness.

10. Yogmaya Temple

Near the Qutb complex, this temple is among Delhi’s few pre-Sultanate era survivors. Dedicated to Yogmaya, an avatar of Krishna’s illusory energy, it feels ancient, sacred, and resilient. Stone walls, quiet courtyards, and old trees murmur stories of Aurangzeb’s efforts to erase it. Every Navratri, the place bursts with devotional energy. Visiting here feels like stepping through time, to a place that history nearly erased but didn’t.

In the End...

Paharganj is a sensory symphony of chaos, aromas, scams, cheap eats, haggling, and secrets. But buried within that chaos are bright treasures that include old temples, Mughal stone, hidden book alleys, peaceful ashrams, and beautiful gardens. It's dirty and outrageous and stirring and unforgettable. It’s a messy love letter to India’s soul, and I’ll keep going back for the messy, glorious confusion it brings.

Welcome to Delhi!