The Ethnographic Museum of Batumi: A Handcrafted Glimpse into Georgian Life

We had been wanting to visit the Ethnographic Museum in Batumi for quite a while. Having enjoyed similar museums in Tbilisi, Kyiv, and Zaporizhzhia, we were curious to see how this one compared. We had read that it was smaller than the others, but that did not deter us. If anything, that added to the charm. We have always enjoyed places that capture a country’s essence in a compact, heartfelt way.

What is an Ethnographic Museum?

Ethnographic museums are dedicated to preserving and showcasing the traditional ways of life of a region’s people, from clothing, tools, and architecture to customs, crafts, and rituals. In much of Eastern Europe and the Caucasus, these museums became popular in the 19th and 20th centuries as a way to document disappearing rural traditions. Rapid industrialization, urban migration, and political changes meant that old ways of living could vanish in a single generation. These museums became living archives, ensuring that future visitors could see how people worked, celebrated, and survived in earlier times.

In Georgia, where the connection to land, craft, and hospitality is strong, ethnographic museums are as much about identity as they are about history. They preserve not just objects, but the stories, skills, and pride of communities.

Getting There

The Batumi Ethnographic Museum is located a short drive from the city center. You can reach it by taxi in around 15 minutes, or by local minibus (marshrutka) if you are familiar with the routes. We took the #12 bus from our apartment, and the ride was pleasant and quick. The setting is peaceful, away from the busy streets and tourist crowds of the seaside boulevard. It is the kind of place where the air feels quieter, the pace slower, and it is perfect for taking in the details. When we arrived around noon, there were only a few other people present.

A Museum Built by Hand

One of the most remarkable aspects of this museum is that it was created entirely by one man. The founder did not just curate objects; he built the models, crafted the displays, and assembled the exhibits himself. It is not often you encounter a museum that is essentially a work of folk art in itself.

When we arrived, we paid a small entrance fee and were immediately welcomed for a guided tour. Our guide led us first to a series of meticulously crafted models of churches from the Batumi region. Some were instantly recognizable, their real-life counterparts standing around the central part of the city. A couple did not look familiar at first. I took pictures of each one, as I have always loved visiting religious architecture. Later, I realized I had seen all but two of these churches in person.

Walking Through Georgia’s Past

The tour continued through exhibits showing the many aspects of Georgian life, past and present. There were displays of farm equipment, wooden plows, scythes, and grain sieves alongside examples of simple but ingenious tools. Clothing from different eras and regions showed the variations in style, fabric, and color. Children’s toys, handmade and worn with play, offered a glimpse into the joys of simpler times.

The variety was impressive. A section with taxidermied animals and carefully preserved mushrooms illustrated the richness of the local environment, while reconstructed buildings demonstrated how rural homes were designed to meet both practical and cultural needs.

Toward the end of the tour, the focus shifted to craftsmanship, particularly woodworking. Beautifully carved objects, including furniture, utensils, and architectural details, reminded us how integral this skill was to Georgian life. Even everyday items were made with care and artistic detail.

After about 40 minutes, we reached the final room and were guided to a small gift shop. Here, we met the museum’s creator. Friendly and clearly proud of his work, he spoke about the years of dedication that went into making the museum what it is today.

Revisiting at Our Own Pace

Once the official tour ended, we were invited to wander back through the exhibits at our own pace. This gave us time to linger over certain displays and take in details we might have missed the first time.

Outside, the museum grounds added to the peaceful atmosphere. A small waterfall flowed nearby, home to a few frogs whose quiet croaks blended with the sound of water. It felt far removed from the busy city streets, a little pocket of calm and reflection.

Final Thoughts

The Batumi Ethnographic Museum may not be the kind of place you spend an entire day exploring, but it offers something more personal: a heartfelt, handmade journey through Georgia’s culture and history. In a relatively short visit, you can see how people have lived, worked, and created in this part of the world, all presented with care and authenticity.

If you appreciate traditional crafts, rural heritage, or simply want a quieter, more meaningful stop during your time in Batumi, this museum is well worth a visit. For us, it was not just about the exhibits, it was about the personal touch behind them and the sense that history is kept alive here by someone with a creative passion and a love for his country. 

Other Ethnographic Museums in Georgia Worth Visiting

If the Batumi Ethnographic Museum sparks your curiosity, Georgia has several other ethnographic collections that offer even deeper dives into the country’s history and cultural traditions. Each has its own character, shaped by the people who maintain it and the region it represents.

The Open Air Museum of Ethnography, Tbilisi

Set on a hillside overlooking the city, the Tbilisi Open Air Museum is the largest ethnographic museum in Georgia. Spread across 52 hectares, it features more than 70 buildings relocated from different regions of the country, each representing a unique style of Georgian rural architecture. You can step inside traditional houses from Kakheti, Svaneti, and Adjara, explore water mills, wine cellars, and watchtowers, and see how their layouts reflect local climate, customs, and trade. The museum often hosts festivals, folk performances, and workshops, making it feel alive rather than static. Getting there is easy by taxi or bus, and it is best visited with plenty of time to wander the winding paths between exhibits.

Martvili Ethnographic Museum

Located in Samegrelo, the Martvili Ethnographic Museum is smaller than Tbilisi’s but deeply rooted in local heritage. Its collection includes farming tools, traditional Megrelian clothing, pottery, and domestic items that tell the story of everyday life in western Georgia. The museum also features archaeological finds from the region, some dating back thousands of years. Martvili is a great stop if you are exploring the Martvili Canyon or nearby monasteries.

Mestia’s Museum of History and Ethnography

High in the mountains of Svaneti, the Mestia Museum combines ethnographic exhibits with historical treasures. Alongside displays of traditional Svan clothing, tools, and religious artifacts, you will find medieval manuscripts, icons, and goldsmith work. The museum also covers the unique defensive towers that dot the Svaneti landscape, explaining their role in family and village life. Its location in one of Georgia’s most breathtaking regions makes the visit even more memorable.

Ozurgeti Ethnographic Museum

In the Guria region, the Ozurgeti Ethnographic Museum highlights the traditions of Georgia’s southwestern communities. You will find collections of folk musical instruments, ceramics, and woodwork, as well as reconstructions of Gurian homes and workshops. The museum often includes exhibits about tea production, which has been a major part of Guria’s economy since the 19th century. It is a worthwhile detour if you are traveling between Batumi and Tbilisi along the coast or through the hills.

Sighnaghi Ethnographic Museum

In the wine country of Kakheti, the Sighnaghi Museum blends ethnography with art. Its ethnographic section displays wine-making tools, embroidery, carpets, and household items from the region, giving insight into rural Kakhetian life. The rest of the museum houses fine art, including works by the famous Georgian painter Niko Pirosmani. The combination makes it a rich cultural stop in a town already known for its scenic views and wineries.

A Trip To Northern Cyprus' Legendary Famagusta

On our journey to Cyprus, we wanted to see some interesting sites. As I looked at the things to do, I came upon Northern Cyprus and Famagusta. I had vaguely remembered reading about it or seeing it somewhere. But I had no idea it was here, on the island of Cyprus. Yet, I thought that I would likely miss out on it. Going to Northern Cyprus seemed like a challenge. Generally, such places are hard to get into; you have to get visas in advance, and they can even be a bit difficult to get around. Yet, when walking through Larnaca, I saw that tour companies were offering tours to Famagusta, so I thought, "Why not?"

I had decided to enquire after we made our rounds around the island. In fact, by this time, we had actually gone into Northern Cyprus on foot, which was totally unexpected (more on that later). The cost was reasonable, and the idea of exploring an abandoned city was too good to pass up. I’ve always been fascinated by places frozen in time, where life once thrived but suddenly stopped. This trip would also include other key sites in Northern Cyprus, which made it even more appealing.

A few days earlier, we had ventured into Northern Cyprus to visit the capital, Nicosia. That city was unlike anywhere else I’ve been. It’s divided in two: half in the Republic of Cyprus and half in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Crossing the border on foot felt surreal, almost like stepping back into a different era. The shift in architecture, atmosphere, and even the smell of the streets reminded me of walking through parts of Türkiye or Egypt. I may even write a lil' post on that in the future, so stay tuned!

On the morning of our Famagusta tour, we set off early. The first stops included a beautiful monastery and ancient ruins that told stories of Cyprus’s deep, layered past. But the real anticipation was building for our main destination, a place that has fascinated urban explorers and historians for decades: Famagusta.

A Brief History of Famagusta

Famagusta’s history is a tapestry woven from centuries of conquest, trade, and conflict. Located on the eastern coast of Cyprus, it was once one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean. In the Middle Ages, especially under Lusignan rule in the 14th century, it was a bustling trade hub where merchants from Venice, Genoa, and beyond would gather. The wealth from this period funded the construction of grand churches, fortifications, and palatial buildings, many of which still stand..or rather, their shells do, in the modern city center.

The city’s fortunes began to change in the late 16th century when the Ottoman Empire seized control from the Venetians after a long siege. For centuries afterward, Famagusta remained under Ottoman administration, slowly declining in prominence but never losing its strategic importance.

In the modern era, especially during the 1960s and early 1970s, Famagusta experienced a golden age as a tourist destination. Its district of Varosha became the crown jewel of Cypriot tourism, attracting celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor and Brigitte Bardot. Luxury hotels lined the beach, fashionable boutiques filled the streets, and sunseekers came from across Europe to enjoy its turquoise waters.

But everything changed in 1974, when a coup in Cyprus backed by the Greek military junta prompted a military intervention by Turkey. Turkish forces advanced on Famagusta, and its Greek Cypriot residents fled in haste, leaving behind homes, cars, and personal belongings. The Varosha district was fenced off by the Turkish military and remained sealed for decades, becoming one of the world’s most famous ghost cities.

In recent years, parts of Varosha have been reopened to visitors under Turkish Cypriot control. But much of it remains off-limits, a haunting reminder of how politics and war can freeze a place in time.

Exploring the Inhabited Part of Famagusta

Our tour began in the still-living heart of Famagusta, a sharp contrast to the ghostly silence I knew awaited us later. This part of the city is vibrant and full of life. The streets are shaded by trees, lined with cafes, and punctuated by grand mosques that were once magnificent Gothic cathedrals.

One of the most striking examples is the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, originally the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas. Its Gothic façade, with its pointed arches and delicate tracery, looks like it belongs in medieval France. Yet inside, the Christian iconography has long been replaced with Islamic features. This blend of cultures and histories is what makes Famagusta so fascinating.

We had some free time to wander through the cobblestone streets, peeking into artisan shops and enjoying the quiet hum of daily life. We grabbed a quick lunch, a thin-crust pizza at a small café near the central square. It was a nice way to relax and fill our hungry bellies! 

Entering Varosha – The Abandoned District

After exploring the main city, we boarded the bus and headed toward the reason I had signed up for the trip: Varosha. The approach is strange. You can see the tops of decaying high-rises looming over modern streets, like ghosts of another era. We were given a list of rules as we went inside. We passed a military checkpoint. They take security here pretty seriously. I was told this place just opened to tourism quite recently, so talk about being at the right place at the right time!

Once inside the open section, the scale of abandonment hits you immediately. Whole blocks of hotels, apartment buildings, and shops stand empty, windows shattered, paint peeling, balconies rusting. It’s eerily silent except for the wind and the distant sound of waves. The air feels heavy with memory, as if the place itself remembers the people who once filled it.

It reminded me strongly of my visit to Chernobyl a few years ago. It is that same sense of a place where life suddenly stopped. But here, the sea glitters just meters away, and the sunshine makes the decay somehow even more surreal. Unlike Chernobyl, entry into the buildings is strictly forbidden. Our guide explained that the structures are unstable and could collapse at any time.

Walking down the beachfront promenade, I could see how vast Varosha really is. The part open to the public is just a fraction of the district. As you step onto the beach, the view is almost absurd: turquoise waters, white sand, and people playing in the surf, all while behind you, the skyline is a jagged row of rotting high-rises. It’s beauty and desolation side by side.

Why Famagusta is Worth Visiting

Famagusta is more than just a stop for those curious about abandoned places. It’s a city where layers of history are visible on every street corner, where Gothic cathedrals became mosques, where medieval walls still stand watch over the harbor, and where a modern ghost city whispers about the fragility of peace.

For me, the most striking thing was how normal life continues right next to such haunting emptiness. In one direction, children play, fishermen cast lines, and shops sell fresh pastries. On the other side, there’s nothing but silence and decay. That juxtaposition stays with you long after you leave.

Visiting Famagusta is not just about seeing something unusual. It’s about feeling the passage of time, the effects of conflict, and the resilience of a city that has endured centuries of change.

10 Interesting Things to See in and Around Famagusta

If you are in the area, check out some of the nearby sites. 

1. Varosha Beach
This is the most striking part of Famagusta. The beach itself is gorgeous, with golden sand and crystal-clear water. Standing here offers the ultimate contrast — the beautiful Mediterranean ahead of you and the abandoned skyline of Varosha looming behind. You can walk along the designated paths that run beside the ruined hotels and peer into a world that has been left untouched for nearly 50 years. It’s both relaxing and deeply thought-provoking.

2. Othello Castle
Named after Shakespeare’s tragic character (who was supposedly inspired by a Venetian governor of Cyprus), Othello Castle is a fortress built by the Lusignans and later reinforced by the Venetians. Its thick walls, moat, and towers make it an impressive sight. Inside, you can explore courtyards, staircases, and views over the city. History lovers will appreciate its strategic role in defending the harbor. It’s also a great spot for photography, especially during golden hour.

3. Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque
Once the grand Gothic Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, this structure was converted into a mosque during Ottoman rule. The architecture is stunning, with soaring pointed arches, intricate stonework, and a façade that feels straight out of medieval Europe. Inside, the Gothic design blends with Islamic elements, creating a unique fusion. It’s an active mosque, so visitors should dress respectfully.

4. Venetian Walls of Famagusta
These massive fortifications completely encircle the old city and are among the best-preserved medieval walls in the Mediterranean. Built to withstand heavy artillery, they feature bastions, gates, and a dry moat. Walking along them gives you a sense of the city’s former importance and defensive strength. You can enter through the Land Gate and follow the paths along the walls for sweeping views.

5. Namik Kemal Dungeon and Museum
This small but fascinating museum is located in the building where the famous Turkish poet Namik Kemal was imprisoned in the 19th century. The exhibits tell his story and provide insight into Ottoman-era life in Cyprus. The stone cells are atmospheric, and the museum is a quick but memorable stop for those interested in literature and history.

6. Saint Barnabas Monastery
Located just outside Famagusta, this monastery dates back to the 5th century and is dedicated to Saint Barnabas, the patron saint of Cyprus. The complex includes a church, cloisters, and an archaeological museum housing artifacts from ancient Salamis and the surrounding area. The grounds are peaceful, and the blend of history and spirituality makes it a must-visit.

7. Salamis Ruins
An ancient city dating back to the 11th century BC, Salamis was once the most important city-state in Cyprus. Today, you can wander among its Roman-era remains, including a gymnasium, theater, and intricate mosaics. The site is expansive, so take your time exploring. The combination of history and scenic coastal location is unforgettable.

8. Palm Tree-Lined Streets of Modern Famagusta
While the ghost city gets most of the attention, the inhabited part of Famagusta is charming in its own right. Stroll down its palm-shaded boulevards, enjoy local cafes, and browse small shops selling crafts and souvenirs. This area provides a vibrant contrast to the melancholy of Varosha. I was pleasantly surprised by how lovely this place is! 

9. The Sea Gate (Porta del Mare)
This ornate Venetian gate once served as the main entrance from the port into the walled city. Decorated with the winged lion of Saint Mark, it’s a reminder of Famagusta’s Venetian heritage. Standing here, you can imagine the bustling maritime trade that once passed through.

10. Glapsides Beach
Just north of the city, this beach offers a more traditional seaside experience than Varosha. It’s popular with locals and tourists alike, with calm waters, soft sand, and beachside taverns serving fresh seafood. If you want to swim without the haunting backdrop of abandoned buildings, this is the place to go.

Welcome To Delhi: Staying in Paharganj

This was my third time to Delhi, but I don't think that time number 2 counts, as it was just an overnighter on the way from Chennai to Nepal. Nepal, now that was a trip that I'll have to talk about in future posts.

On our first trip to Delhi, my wife, daughter, and I traveled with my sister.

After a bus groping, we were greeted by the meanest group of transgender people I have ever met. In Thailand, transgender people are super fun, friendly, and so outgoing. These folks were not (of course, I can't speak for all transgender people in India! That would be unfair). They got a bit mean and manhandled us. It hurt! We barely escaped in an autorickshaw (or tuk-tuk) thanks to an overzealous driver who was hellbent on ripping us off.

Third Time’s a Charm-ish

This trip started quite a bit smoother, thanks to the modern Delhi metro system that connects the airport to the area where we were staying. It is known as Paharganj. This is the same neighborhood as we stayed in before when we visited Delhi for the very first time way back in 2016. Paharganj is a crazy labyrinth: budget hotels piled atop one another, alleyways that seem to defy geometry, and motorbike riders that can't keep their hands off the horn. It’s so loud you can visibly feel your sanity eroding. It's where I learned to keep my AirPods in my ears at all times. However, Sephie could not stand the noise, so I gave them to her, which helped a LOT. Families of monkeys swing from wires overhead while cows wander the streets. Let's just say this place is a world away from what many have ever experienced. 

Let's Talk About Paharganj, Shall We?

The Market and Food Scene

Walking through Main Bazaar, the crowd wraps around you like a clingy octopus. Shops sell everything you'll see on the rest of your time in India. These include but are not limited to: tea blends, leather goods, harem pants,  religious books, spices, and odd trinkets. Street food pours out of every possible crevice. I'm talking about plate after plate of momos, endless dosa, vats filled with dripping curry, and a bevy of fried things I can’t even name. You’re bombarded with colors, smells, and sounds until your brain staggers. I could not help but try everything that I could get my vegetarian hands on. Lucky for me, India is a vegetarian paradise! 

The food here is confusingly great. At Sitaram Diwan Chand, you can inhale legendary chole bhature for a literal buck or two. The flakes of fried bread soak in curry so well they practically get married (and who doesn't love an Indian wedding?). Absolutely worth doubling down the cholesterol for. Meanwhile, at Multani Dhanda’s kachaori corner (“Multan Moth Bhandar, Gali No. 6”), you're served insanely savory fried pockets that locals swear are the best in Delhi. Then there’s the momo fiasco: we once got the wrong order, and were charged twice for the wrong dumplings. I just smiled and let it be, because arguing over momos is not how I choose to channel my inner Gandhi.

We also liked the Krishna Rooftop Cafe (pictured above). Just be careful not to hit your head on the way to the top. Lucky for us, we got a seat on the rooftop balcony both times we visited. The views are spectacular! You can see the city light up at sunset and the throngs of people on the streets below. The food is good, but a bit more expensive than other places (that view is going to cost you). Overall, I recommend it. 

If you are into cleanliness, look away. During an early morning walk, we saw people mixing pots of curry by hand. You kind of just have to vibe with that here. You'll likely get sick, and that's part of the adventure. 

Hidden Gems and Alleyway Charms

You walk past the noise, step into Tilak Gali behind Imperial Cinema, and suddenly you’re in an alternate reality. Crumbling havelis hint at old world grandeur, with brick walls murmuring stories of forgotten Delhi. Jackson’s Bookstore has been hawking pre-owned wisdom for forty years. You'll find tarot decks, philosophy books, and Beat poetry, all for the price of cheap chai. The owner knows where every hidden stash is tucked. If your soul wants off the main road, this is your exit ramp.

Then there’s Qadam Sharif, a tiny 14th-century shrine tucked into a Paharganj alley. Built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq for his late son, the mausoleum now houses a mosque, madrasa, and a quiet dignity that few who get here appreciate. You’ll need to pause and listen. You may hear the wood creaking as the foot traffic spills in to whisper prayers. It’s a rare breath of stillness.

What People Say

Travelers often wax poetic about how “authentically chaotic” Paharganj is, calling it a “backpacker’s paradise” and a “raw collage of old and new.” One TripAdvisor review called it a fascinating maze of bargains. A Redditor, however, bluntly warned: “Paharganj is filled with weird people and crackheads. Be careful.” Another described being scammed via bogus menus and extortionate taxis. There’s a fair bit of fear, not unfair, but for me, it’s part of the adrenaline. Plus, scandalously cheap goods make it a fun festival of shopping bliss. 

What Makes Paharganj Extra Special

You’ll find calmer places later in your trip. Goa can do lazy sunsets; Rishikesh offers spiritual peace. Paharganj gives you visceral, chaotic life. It assaults your senses, makes you bargain like your life depends on it, fills your belly with spicy goodness, and slaps the “You’re in India” sticker firmly on your soul. Love it or hate it, this place never lets you slide into bland touristism.

Ten Things to See Around Paharganj 

1. Red Fort

Red Fort is an unmistakable symbol of India’s Mughal past, built by Shah Jahan in the 17th century. Its red sandstone walls, majestic gates, and sprawling courtyards are visually stunning and monumentally historic. You can stand where warriors once strutted, feeling the weight of centuries. The museum inside holds relics and Mughal-era artifacts. At night, the sound-and-light show brings the fort’s history to vivid, almost kitschy life.

2. Chandni Chowk

Right next to Red Fort, Chandni Chowk is Old Delhi personified. It is chaotic, fragrant, hyper-colored, and utterly captivating. Rickshaw rides through the narrow lanes are still the best way to absorb the madness. You’ll munch your way through paratha, jalebi, jalapeno chai, and possibly an identity crisis. The shops sell everything from electronics to street jewelry to wedding saris. Every step you take is layered with history, spice, and stamina-testing crowds.

3. Gauri Shankar Temple

A short stumble from Paharganj is the Gauri Shankar Temple, nearly 800 years old and dedicated to Shiva. Its simplicity strikes you: not blinged-out, not ornamental, but centered and austere in its stone elegance. You can meditate in relative quiet, beneath the old lingam carved from black stone. Old devotees move about, exuding calm, reciting prayers. It’s a spiritual stop that catches your breathing, tensing heart, and overloaded senses.

4. Qadam Sharif

This 14th-century dargah was originally made as a tomb for Feroz Shah Tughlaq’s son, later boxed into a complex with a mosque and madrasa. Its battered walls and heavy gates feel like a secret handshake from the past. Inside, the air is thick with prayers and calm. Few tourists go here, so it’s a rare lull of history and quiet. You’ll feel the solemn hush of centuries shifting softly beneath your feet.

5. Ramakrishna Mission Ashram

Founded in 1927 by Swami Vivekananda’s followers, this ashram is an oasis of disciplined calm. Inside, worship sessions are quiet; the library is enormous and scholarly, filled with philosophy texts and spiritual guidance. The reading hall invites you to slow down. It's like emotionally unplugging from the marketplace next door. The ashram’s aura is centered, considerate, and calming. Your soul will thank you for stopping here.

6. Jama Masjid

One of the largest mosques in India, Jama Masjid’s red sandstone grandeur is impossible to miss, even from Paharganj. You climb steps into a vast courtyard that holds 25,000 worshippers. Inside, ornate marble mihrabs and lofty minarets swallow you in scale. You can rent a robe (if needed), and the view from the minaret is dizzying, a rooftop Disneyland of Old Delhi. It’s powerful, spiritual, and atmospheric. I had visited this during my first time and we just missed it the second time, sadly. 

7. Naya Mandir (Jain Temple)

Built in 1807, this is one of the first Jain temples with a shikhara allowed under Mughal rule. It was a bold architectural act. The marble interiors glow in candlelight, revealing ornate carvings and manuscripts. It’s quiet, ornate and completely different from the chaos outside. Devotees recite softly; the temple’s clarity calms your mind like a mental reset. Quite surreal in contrast to the filthy street corners outside. I just love such juxtapositions! 

8. Agrasen ki Baoli

A hidden stepwell near Connaught Place, this 14th-century water reservoir is architecturally neat and peaceful. Stone steps descend into cool quiet, away from car horns and bargain noise. Filmmakers love the shadows and symmetry, and you will too. Legend says the air here is charged with echoes of history, allowing for introspection, or just stalking sweet Insta shots. Ghost hunters also claim to feel things. Spooky or serene, either vibe works. 

9. Garden of Five Senses

About 20 acres of curated peace in Saket, not far from Paharganj. This garden loops through Mughal garden themes, bamboo courts, solar-powered installations, and lily pools. It's an assault on your senses in a good way: smells, sights, textures collide in natural harmony. The Mayan Labna Arch replica is stunning and surprises you mid-flowerbed. Vendors sell chai in tiny clay cups as you stroll sculpted paths. It’s a perfect place to reboot the soul after market madness.

10. Yogmaya Temple

Near the Qutb complex, this temple is among Delhi’s few pre-Sultanate era survivors. Dedicated to Yogmaya, an avatar of Krishna’s illusory energy, it feels ancient, sacred, and resilient. Stone walls, quiet courtyards, and old trees murmur stories of Aurangzeb’s efforts to erase it. Every Navratri, the place bursts with devotional energy. Visiting here feels like stepping through time, to a place that history nearly erased but didn’t.

In the End...

Paharganj is a sensory symphony of chaos, aromas, scams, cheap eats, haggling, and secrets. But buried within that chaos are bright treasures that include old temples, Mughal stone, hidden book alleys, peaceful ashrams, and beautiful gardens. It's dirty and outrageous and stirring and unforgettable. It’s a messy love letter to India’s soul, and I’ll keep going back for the messy, glorious confusion it brings.

Welcome to Delhi! 

Why Palolem Beach, Goa Was the Perfect End to Our India Trip

The last stop on our recent India adventure was Palolem Beach in South Goa. And, honestly, it might have been my favorite beach of the entire trip. After months on the go, Palolem was exactly the peaceful, relaxing escape we desperately needed. This was the place we would say goodbye to South India and make our way back to Delhi for our return flight to Tbilisi, Georgia. 

But what a place to end it all! 

Our Arrival

Getting there was half the fun. Actually, it was quite an ordeal. We arranged to have our hotel rent us a taxi in Baga, and began what would be a couple hours journey to South Goa. We were not able to get the low rate that we were offered, but felt that the cost was similar to what was suggested on internet forums. So we climbed in and zoomed south.

Our driver was in a bit of a hurry. As we hugged curved roads, the heat mixed with the dizzying turns made our daughter feel quite car sick. We did not know if she was going to throw up, and I think our driver just wanted to get us there. When we arrived in town, he asked for more than we were quoted at the beginning. My wife had to lay down the law and say "no." Eventually, we agreed to disagree (putting it mildly) and we got out. We were seriously dehydrated and frazzled after the journey. But we were here! Now it was time to haul our bags to our bungalows... but finding them was not easy. The beating sun blazed overhead as we finally stumbled into what would be our home for the next few days.

Our Stay at Lacto Cressida Bungalows

We stayed at a budget-friendly spot called Lacto Cressida Bungalows. It wasn’t right on the beach, but just close enough for easy access. The bungalow was spacious, with a private bathroom, an inviting hammock, and a shaded outdoor seating area surrounded by lush palm trees and plants. It had that chilled, tropical vibe I was craving...well, except for the drunken neighbors who kept swiping our chairs at night and never returning them. But hey, it added something to write about, and that's what makes travel so interesting. 

Days Spent on the Beach and Delicious Local Eats

Most of our days were spent walking along the pristine shoreline and hopping between restaurants. Our absolute favorite find was a tiny thali stand built inside a local’s house right on the main road. It was dirt cheap, and the food was fantastic. It was loaded with authentic flavors that blew us away!

The beachside restaurants, while picturesque, were quite pricey. So we saved a special meal there for Valentine’s Day. It was a romantic dinner with the sea as our backdrop. I can't tell you the name of the place, they all kind of blend together, but it was fun and memorable, the perfect way to celebrate the love that I have for my wife and daughter. 

Swimming, Sunsets, and Scenic Hills

The sea at Palolem was pure perfection. Calm and warm, inviting us in for daily swims. Sometimes, a huge wave would crash unexpectedly. Honestly, that was a little scary but thrilling too. I was reminded of the last time I visited Goa, in 2016, and I was drug by a riptide and lost my glasses in the struggle. I would not let that happen again. The beach itself is jaw-droppingly beautiful, the kind of place you stare at in awe without even realizing it. Sunsets here are something else. Rich, golden, and unforgettable. Truly a romantic place!

Both ends of the beach are framed by hills that separate Palolem from nearby beaches. At the northern tip lies a lagoon with a small island that’s walkable at low tide. We loved heading out there in the evening to watch the sunset. There’s a rock painted like a shark. That was totally cute and kind of quirky!

Kayaking the Lagoons and Jungle Backwaters

One of the best things we did was rent kayaks and explore the nearby lagoons. I struggled a bit at first.  Paddling against the current was no joke, especially with my daughter in the back seat! Meanwhile, my wife had her own kayak, and we followed another group who were feeding a flock of local birds. They eventually told us to bug off. Kind of. They just needed to turn their dinghy aroun,d and we were in the way. 

We paddled deep into the jungle-like backwaters, a calm, green wonderland that felt a world away from the beach buzz. It was an incredible couple of hours, and a perfect mix of adventure and tranquility.

Secret Trails and the Quiet Side of Goa

Later, we took a walk down a trail behind the village that opened up into a vast, peaceful field. No tourists, no noise. Just endless hills and trees as far as the eye could see. It felt like stepping into another world, and a reminder that Goa’s wild beauty goes far beyond the beaches.

The ATM Saga Continues

The only real downside? The ATM situation. One day, I had to walk nearly an hour and a half to a neighboring village hunting for a working ATM. After trying three machines that were out of cash, I almost gave up. Later, I learned you can actually get cash advances at some tour agencies in town, which would have saved me all that trouble (and those pesky ATM fees). Lesson learned for next time! 

Why Palolem Beach is So Special

Palolem stands out because it combines breathtaking natural beauty with a laid-back, friendly vibe. It’s touristy but not overcrowded, with stunning scenery that feels almost untouched. The mix of hills, lagoon, golden sands, and vibrant local culture creates a perfect balance of adventure and relaxation. The food is great, it's not too expensive, and there's some seriously good shopping. It is the kind of beach place I like. No big hotel chains, lots of cute beach huts, and people who are friendly. It's not anything like Baga beach. This is South Goa, the more laid back part. 

What People Say About Palolem

Likes:

• Many travelers rave about Palolem’s beautiful crescent-shaped beach and calm waters (TripAdvisor reviews).

• The variety of affordable food options, especially local Goan and Indian cuisine.

• The peaceful vibe compared to Goa’s busier northern beaches.

Dislikes:

• Some complain about noisy nightlife and party crowds during peak season (Lonely Planet forums).

• The occasional litter left behind by careless tourists (Reddit discussions).

• Limited ATM availability, which can be frustrating (been there!).

5 Things to Do in Palolem

1. Sunset at the Lagoon Island: Walk out at low tide to the island and enjoy a magical golden hour with the painted shark rock. You can see the fishing boats in the distance as they make their way back to shore. 

2. Kayak the Backwaters: Rent a kayak and explore peaceful jungle lagoons filled with birds and wildlife. This is not to be missed!

3. Try Local Thali Stands: Skip expensive beach restaurants and eat where the locals do for authentic, budget-friendly meals. They are tantalizing! Bonus: Enjoy Dosa for breakfast. My favorite food of South India! 

4. Visit Butterfly Beach: Take a boat ride or hike to this secluded beach nearby, known for its crystal-clear waters. Sadly, I missed this, but maybe next time! 

5. Yoga and Wellness: Join a yoga class or meditation session offered by local shalas for a rejuvenating experience.

Final Thoughts

We left Palolem with full hearts and salty hair, wishing we could stay forever. This beach gave us exactly what we needed. Peace, beauty, and a chance to recharge after a challenging year. If you’re heading to Goa and you want something romantic and laid back, make sure Palolem is at the top of your list.

15 Things to Do and See in Zugdidi, Georgia

A few years ago, we had a quick stopover in Zugdidi on our way to Mestia. (Mestia is a favorite of mine, so expect a full post soon.) This time, we decided to give Zugdidi more of our time. It’s close to Batumi, and I had heard great things about the town from friends here. So, we packed up and took the marshrutka from Batumi with the family.

The ride took around three hours through scenic landscapes, and we were dropped off right in the city center. From there, we walked to our homestay. It was a charming family house with the owners living upstairs. The place had a cozy, old-world vibe I absolutely loved. It was spacious with plenty of rooms and, best of all, very affordable. It is one of the many perks of traveling in Georgia.

I loved Zugdidi and want to go back. But until then, I want to share with you some of what makes this place extra special! 

About Zugdidi

Zugdidi is nestled at the foothills of the Greater Caucasus Mountains, acting as a gateway to the breathtaking Svaneti region, where Mestia lies. The town has a population of about 45,000 people, making it one of Georgia’s mid-sized cities, ranking roughly 7th or 8th in population size nationally.

While it is not as bustling as Tbilisi or Batumi, Zugdidi holds a special place in Georgian history and culture, making it a worthwhile destination in its own right.

Why Visit Zugdidi? Top Sights and Attractions

The main attraction in Zugdidi is the Dadiani Palace, a historic castle turned museum that showcases the rich history of the region and the noble Dadiani family who ruled the area. The palace grounds include beautiful gardens, fountains, and an impressive collection of artifacts and artworks.

Walking through the castle feels like stepping back in time. You can almost hear whispers of the past echoing through its halls. The palace museum tells the story of Mingrelia (the historical name for the region) and its importance in Georgian politics and culture.

Close by, the Central Park offers a peaceful spot for locals and visitors alike to relax, stroll, and enjoy the mountain views. When we were there, the park was bustling with families and children, with fountains and benches shaded by tall trees — a great place to soak in the local atmosphere.

Another highlight is the central market, a lively area where locals shop for fresh produce, meats, spices, and everyday essentials. We loved wandering through the stalls, chatting with friendly vendors, and sampling some of the region’s seasonal fruits. The market gives a real taste of daily life in Zugdidi and the flavors of western Georgia.

Zugdidi’s Food Scene: A Unique Flavor of Western Georgia

Western Georgian cuisine, including what you will find in Zugdidi, is known for its bold and hearty flavors, quite distinct from the eastern Georgian styles. Expect lots of fresh herbs, walnuts, and spices. Dishes like Elarji (cornmeal with cheese), Mchadi (cornbread), and various walnut sauces are staples here.

Georgian Supra (feast) culture is alive and well in Zugdidi, with local wine and chacha (grape vodka) often flowing generously at tables. The food here feels rustic and soul-satisfying, perfect after a day exploring the mountains or palace grounds.

History of the Area

Zugdidi’s history is deeply intertwined with the Dadiani family, who were the rulers of the Principality of Mingrelia from the 16th century until the late 19th century. The palace was originally built in the 19th century and served as their summer residence. It survived periods of political upheaval and wars, and today it stands as a symbol of the region’s rich heritage.

The town itself has been a strategic and cultural hub in western Georgia for centuries, thanks to its position near mountain passes leading to the highlands.

15 Things to Do and See While in Zugdidi, Georgia

1. Explore Dadiani Palace and Museum

The Dadiani Palace is a stunning 19th-century residence that belonged to the noble Dadiani family, rulers of the Mingrelia region. Inside, you’ll find preserved rooms filled with royal artifacts, beautiful portraits, and period furniture, offering a glimpse into Georgian aristocratic life. The palace gardens add a tranquil backdrop, perfect for a leisurely stroll.

Review: Visitors call it a “hidden gem” with “rich history and beautiful grounds” (TripAdvisor).

How to get there: It’s located right in Zugdidi city center, walking distance from most accommodations.

Why visit: It’s one of the few well-preserved aristocratic palaces in Georgia, blending architecture, history, and lush gardens in one spot.

2. Relax in Central Park

Zugdidi’s Central Park is a bustling hub for locals, featuring fountains, playgrounds, and plenty of shaded benches. It’s a lively place where families gather and children play, making it a great spot to soak in local daily life. The well-kept greenery offers a refreshing pause between sightseeing.

Review: Many praise the park for being “a beautiful, peaceful green space” and “perfect for people-watching.”

How to get there: Centrally located, just a short walk from the city’s main square.

Why visit: It’s a perfect place to experience authentic Zugdidi life in a relaxed environment.

3. Visit Zugdidi Botanical Garden

Just a short walk from the city center, this botanical garden offers a peaceful escape with native and exotic plants, walking trails, and stunning views of the Greater Caucasus foothills. The gardens are less crowded than those in larger cities, making it ideal for nature lovers and photographers.

Review: Visitors appreciate its “calm atmosphere” and “diverse plant species.”

How to get there: Easily accessible by foot or a short taxi ride from anywhere in Zugdidi.

Why visit: The blend of local flora and mountain vistas makes this garden uniquely refreshing.

4. Shop at the Central Market

The central market in Zugdidi is a lively, colorful place packed with fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, spices, and local crafts. Walking through the stalls offers a real taste of Georgian everyday life, and friendly vendors are often happy to share tips and stories.

Review: Shoppers call it “authentic and vibrant” and “great for fresh, local produce.”

How to get there: Located near the city center; easily walkable or reachable by taxi.

Why visit: It’s one of the best spots to immerse yourself in the local culture and pick up unique Georgian flavors and souvenirs.

5. Dine at Diaroni Restaurant

One of the highlights of our trip was dining at Diaroni, a cozy, family-run restaurant beloved by locals. The atmosphere was warm and inviting, with traditional wooden decor and friendly service. We enjoyed classic western Georgian dishes bursting with fresh herbs and spices. The Elarji and Mchadi here were standouts. The prices were incredibly reasonable, and the quality of food reminded me why Georgian cuisine is famous worldwide. If you find yourself in Zugdidi, Diaroni is a must-visit for an authentic meal.

Review: Diners rave about the “delicious traditional food” and “friendly, homely vibe.”

How to get there: Located near the city center, accessible by foot or taxi.

Why visit: It offers a true taste of Mingrelian flavors in a relaxed, genuine setting.

6. Discover Mtisdziri Fortress

Mtisdziri Fortress is a medieval castle situated a short drive from Zugdidi. It provides panoramic views over the surrounding valleys and the Enguri River. The fortress, though partially in ruins, gives visitors a powerful sense of Georgia’s turbulent past.

Review: Visitors describe it as “stunning views” and “a must-see for history enthusiasts.”

How to get there: About 10 km from Zugdidi; best reached by taxi or organized tour.

Why visit: The combination of breathtaking scenery and history makes it a memorable excursion.

7. Wander the Streets and Meet Local Artisans

Zugdidi’s small workshops near the central market offer visitors the chance to see traditional crafts in action. Local artisans create textiles, wood carvings, and ceramics using time-honored methods. Exploring these shops lets you support local culture and take home unique souvenirs.

Review: Many travelers appreciate the “authentic craft experience” and “friendly shopkeepers.”

How to get there: Within walking distance from the city center.

Why visit: This offers a hands-on cultural experience beyond typical tourist sites.

8. Visit Chitakhevi Church

Located about 15 minutes outside the center of Zugdidi, Chitakhevi Church is a peaceful and historic Georgian Orthodox church that offers a quiet retreat from the bustle of town. Built in the traditional Georgian style, the church features simple yet elegant stone architecture, with clean lines and modest decorative elements that reflect centuries-old craftsmanship. Unlike the grand cathedrals of larger cities, Chitakhevi’s charm lies in its intimate scale and the serene atmosphere that surrounds it.

The church is nestled amid gentle rolling hills and lush greenery, making the walk or short drive there a refreshing experience in itself. Visitors often remark on the calmness that descends as soon as they enter the grounds, which is perfect for contemplation or a moment of spiritual reflection. The church remains active, hosting regular services that are accompanied by the hauntingly beautiful chants typical of Georgian Orthodox worship, adding to the cultural authenticity of the visit.

Review: Visitors value the “peaceful atmosphere” and “beautiful setting.”

How to get there: Accessible by taxi or private car; about 5 km from Zugdidi center.

Why visit: It’s a quiet spot to experience Georgian spirituality and architecture away from crowds.

9. Experience a Georgian Supra (Feast)

If you can join a traditional Supra in Zugdidi, expect an unforgettable experience filled with endless toasts, hearty food, and Georgian polyphonic singing. Supras showcase Georgian hospitality and culture at its best.

Review: Guests describe it as “an amazing cultural immersion” and “warm and welcoming.”

How to get there: Often organized through homestays, guesthouses, or local hosts.

Why visit: It’s the ultimate way to experience Georgian traditions firsthand.

10. Check out Soviet-era Mosaics and Architecture

Zugdidi still retains some Soviet-era mosaics and classic architecture, which offer a glimpse into the city’s 20th-century history. The colorful mosaics add unexpected artistic charm to the urban landscape.

Review: Urban explorers find them “intriguing” and “a cool blend of art and history.”

How to get there: Visible throughout the city; best explored on foot.

Why visit: They add a unique layer to the city’s cultural fabric.

11. Sample Adjika at the Market

Adjika is a spicy Megrelian sauce made from chili peppers, garlic, and herbs. Sampling and buying authentic adjika at Zugdidi’s market is a must for foodies. It’s a perfect souvenir and adds punch to many dishes.

Review: Visitors call it “fiery, flavorful, and addictive.”

How to get there: Central Market or local specialty food shops in Zugdidi.

Why visit: It’s a key taste of western Georgian cuisine and culture.

12. Take a Day Trip to Rukhi Castle

Rukhi Castle stands perched on a hilltop overlooking the mighty Enguri River, commanding spectacular panoramic views stretching all the way toward the disputed region of Abkhazia. This medieval fortress, now mostly in ruins, carries centuries of history within its crumbling walls. As you explore the remnants of towers and battlements, you can almost feel the echoes of past battles and the strategic importance this site held in guarding the borderlands of western Georgia. The wild, rugged landscape around the castle adds to its dramatic, almost cinematic atmosphere, making it a favorite spot for history buffs, photographers, and adventurers alike. The site feels both peaceful and powerful, a place where nature and history collide in a way few other Georgian landmarks do.

Review: Travelers say it’s “off the beaten path but worth it for views.”

How to get there: About 15 km from Zugdidi, accessible by taxi or private car.

Why visit: History and nature combine for a striking experience.

13. Visit the Zugdidi Puppet Theater

The Zugdidi Puppet Theater is a delightful cultural gem that brings traditional Georgian storytelling to life through engaging and imaginative puppet performances. This theater blends folklore, history, and local legends with vibrant puppetry, creating shows that are both entertaining and educational. It’s a wonderful destination for families traveling with children, but also for adults who appreciate the artistry and cultural heritage behind this unique form of theater. The intimate setting allows you to connect closely with the performers and the stories, making every show feel personal and special. Visiting the puppet theater is a charming way to experience Georgian culture beyond museums and monuments, offering a glimpse into the country’s rich tradition of oral storytelling and theatrical creativity.

Review: Audience members call it “delightful” and “a unique experience.”

How to get there: Located in the city center, walkable from most places.

Why visit: It’s a rare chance to see traditional Georgian puppetry live.

14. Stroll Along the Enguri River

The Enguri River’s banks near Zugdidi are peaceful and scenic, perfect for walking, picnicking, or simply enjoying nature. The river views provide a calm contrast to the city’s bustle.

Review: Visitors appreciate the “quiet beauty” and “relaxing atmosphere.”

How to get there: Accessible on foot or by short taxi ride from the city center.

Why visit: It’s a natural retreat close to town.

15. Explore the Local Coffee Shops and Bakeries

Zugdidi’s cozy cafes serve strong Georgian coffee and freshly baked pastries, offering a delicious break between adventures. These small spots are perfect for people-watching and soaking in local vibes.

Review: Travelers praise them as “great places to relax” and “friendly with excellent coffee.”

How to get there: Scattered throughout the city center, all walkable.

Why visit: Coffee culture here is a warm, inviting part of Zugdidi life.

What Other People Say About Zugdidi

Travelers on forums and blogs tend to have mixed but mostly positive things to say about Zugdidi.

What people like:

• Many praise Zugdidi’s authentic Georgian vibe and calm atmosphere, appreciating that it is less touristy than places like Tbilisi or Batumi. One traveler on TripAdvisor calls the Dadiani Palace “a hidden gem full of fascinating history and beautiful grounds.”

• The central market is frequently mentioned in blogs like Advantour for offering an immersive local experience where you can find fresh produce and mingle with friendly vendors.

• Visitors on Reddit (r/GeorgiaTravel) often comment on the warmth and hospitality of Zugdidi’s locals and the affordability of food and lodging.

What people do not like:

• Some travelers note that Zugdidi feels quieter or sleepy compared to bigger cities, which may be a downside for those seeking nightlife or more urban energy (Lonely Planet forums).

• Limited signage and language barriers can make getting around a little challenging, especially for those who do not speak Georgian or Russian (TripAdvisor).

• A few mention that some parts of the town look worn down or less developed compared to tourist hotspots.

Final Thoughts

Zugdidi is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors, but that is part of its charm. It offers a window into Georgian history, culture, and hospitality without the crowds. Whether you are a history buff, a food lover, or someone who appreciates old-world charm with mountain views, Zugdidi is worth a stop on your Georgian adventure.