Traveling to Svaneti for a Snowy Mountain Adventure

We decided to take a little tour to Svaneti while we were in Tbilisi. It was our second time doing this. We went once about five years ago when we visited Georgia, when we were on our way to move to Egypt. That time it was summer, and we wanted to see it with some snow. So we booked a trip and went with a group of mostly Chinese and Asian tourists who were visiting for the Chinese New Year. 

We made a few stops on the way. The first was at a reservoir that was filled with water during soviet times. We were told that there is a city under the water, and they had to relocate people back then. It was a big deal. 

Nestled in the mountains about 70 kilometers north of Tbilisi lies the striking turquoise waters of the Zhinvali Reservoir, a place of remarkable beauty with a complicated past. The reservoir was created in the 1970s and 1980s during the construction of the Zhinvali Dam, part of a large Soviet infrastructure project designed to generate hydroelectric power and provide drinking water for the growing capital.

As the dam filled, the Aragvi River valley slowly disappeared beneath the rising water. Several villages, along with homes, farmland, roads, and centuries-old structures, were submerged, and residents were relocated to new settlements. For many families, it meant leaving behind not just houses but entire landscapes of memory, churchyards, orchards, and the rhythms of rural life that had existed there for generations.

Today, the reservoir is best known for its vivid blue water and scenic views along the Georgian Military Highway, but traces of the lost valley still linger beneath the surface. When water levels drop, the ruins of an old stone church occasionally emerge from the reservoir, a haunting reminder of what once stood there.

Although the water was low when we visited, I did not see any such structures sticking out (and I looked for them).

We continued along the highway and had to wait for about 20 minutes behind a line of trucks for the one-way tunnels to open. The landscape at this point had turned to snow, and the mountains stood around us in their grandeur. We passed through Bakuriana ski resort, which was busy, and then onward towards Svaneti and the church that stands on the hill overlooking the valley below. The weather was cold and extremely windy, but the views were absolutely spectacular.  

We met a friend at the viewpoint to the resevoir. 

Inside the church at Ananuri Fortress.

The fortress overlooking the reservoir. We were
told that when the water is low, you can see buildings
sticking out of the mud. 

A bear at a restaurant where we ate lunch. 

Climbing into the mountains. 

High above the mountain town of Stepantsminda sits one of the most iconic landmarks in the Caucasus: the 14th-century Gergeti Trinity Church. Perched at about 2,170 meters (7,120 feet) on a ridge beneath the massive peak of Mount Kazbek, the church appears almost impossibly placed, as if it grew directly out of the mountainside. Built sometime in the 1300s by an unknown architect, it is the only cross-cupola church in the historic Khevi region. For centuries, the church served not only as a place of worship but also as a refuge; during times of invasion, sacred relics from the ancient capital of Mtskheta, including the Cross of Saint Nino, were brought here for safekeeping.

Just beyond the church is a small viewpoint ridge that many visitors climb to after reaching the plateau. From here, the view opens dramatically: the church sits alone on green alpine meadows while the snow-covered cone of Mount Kazbek rises behind it. The panorama stretches across the Tergi River valley and the rooftops of Stepantsminda far below. The viewpoint is only about a 10–30 minute walk from the church, but it creates the classic postcard scene: stone church, open sky, and the towering Caucasus peaks.

For travelers, the setting feels almost mythic. Local folklore says that the hero Amirani, Georgia’s version of Prometheus, was chained to Mount Kazbek after stealing fire for humanity. Standing at the viewpoint with the wind rushing across the plateau, it’s easy to understand how landscapes like this inspired such legends. The church remains active today, and despite centuries of change, from medieval kingdoms to Soviet rule, it continues to watch quietly over the valley below.

The wind was crazy at the top! 

Lighting a candle in the church 

The view is amazing!

The "Friendship Monument" between Georgia and Russia.

One last picture before returning to Tbilisi

Our Trip to Tbilisi for Valentine's Day / Chinese New Year

My family and I recently took a quick trip to Tbilisi to just get out. It was the Chinese New Year holiday, which meant that I was not teaching online (my students are Chinese), and we had not been anywhere for a good while so what better than to go to one of our favorite large cities?

We took the morning train from Batumi to Tbilisi. It was Valentine's day and we thought it would be nice to have a nice dinner. We were pretty tired when we arrived, however. We walked all over the city after checking into our little Airbnb apartment in the old city. The apartment was very lovely, and the location was perfect. 

Here are some pictures of the things we saw and did in and around Tbilisi.

 

There are cats all over the city. Some are docile and
others are more scared of people.

Valentine's Day dinner at Khinkali Collection (we were pretty tired from
walking all over the city and traveling early).

From our walk around the city.

The outside area of our AirBnb which is typical for the old city.

The bedroom.

The alley near our flat in the old city of Tbilisi 

We are on our way via train from Batumi.

Some of the sights from the train.

A treat for the journey. Labubu lolipop.

Train snacks (breakfast)

It was still dark when we left Batumi. 

I just love the architecture in Tbilisi 

By the thermal baths, which are always so relaxing and interesting to visit.

A view of the city from Turtle Lake.

The Ethnographic Museum of Batumi: A Handcrafted Glimpse into Georgian Life

We had been wanting to visit the Ethnographic Museum in Batumi for quite a while. Having enjoyed similar museums in Tbilisi, Kyiv, and Zaporizhzhia, we were curious to see how this one compared. We had read that it was smaller than the others, but that did not deter us. If anything, that added to the charm. We have always enjoyed places that capture a country’s essence in a compact, heartfelt way.

What is an Ethnographic Museum?

Ethnographic museums are dedicated to preserving and showcasing the traditional ways of life of a region’s people, from clothing, tools, and architecture to customs, crafts, and rituals. In much of Eastern Europe and the Caucasus, these museums became popular in the 19th and 20th centuries as a way to document disappearing rural traditions. Rapid industrialization, urban migration, and political changes meant that old ways of living could vanish in a single generation. These museums became living archives, ensuring that future visitors could see how people worked, celebrated, and survived in earlier times.

In Georgia, where the connection to land, craft, and hospitality is strong, ethnographic museums are as much about identity as they are about history. They preserve not just objects, but the stories, skills, and pride of communities.

Getting There

The Batumi Ethnographic Museum is located a short drive from the city center. You can reach it by taxi in around 15 minutes, or by local minibus (marshrutka) if you are familiar with the routes. We took the #12 bus from our apartment, and the ride was pleasant and quick. The setting is peaceful, away from the busy streets and tourist crowds of the seaside boulevard. It is the kind of place where the air feels quieter, the pace slower, and it is perfect for taking in the details. When we arrived around noon, there were only a few other people present.

A Museum Built by Hand

One of the most remarkable aspects of this museum is that it was created entirely by one man. The founder did not just curate objects; he built the models, crafted the displays, and assembled the exhibits himself. It is not often you encounter a museum that is essentially a work of folk art in itself.

When we arrived, we paid a small entrance fee and were immediately welcomed for a guided tour. Our guide led us first to a series of meticulously crafted models of churches from the Batumi region. Some were instantly recognizable, their real-life counterparts standing around the central part of the city. A couple did not look familiar at first. I took pictures of each one, as I have always loved visiting religious architecture. Later, I realized I had seen all but two of these churches in person.

Walking Through Georgia’s Past

The tour continued through exhibits showing the many aspects of Georgian life, past and present. There were displays of farm equipment, wooden plows, scythes, and grain sieves alongside examples of simple but ingenious tools. Clothing from different eras and regions showed the variations in style, fabric, and color. Children’s toys, handmade and worn with play, offered a glimpse into the joys of simpler times.

The variety was impressive. A section with taxidermied animals and carefully preserved mushrooms illustrated the richness of the local environment, while reconstructed buildings demonstrated how rural homes were designed to meet both practical and cultural needs.

Toward the end of the tour, the focus shifted to craftsmanship, particularly woodworking. Beautifully carved objects, including furniture, utensils, and architectural details, reminded us how integral this skill was to Georgian life. Even everyday items were made with care and artistic detail.

After about 40 minutes, we reached the final room and were guided to a small gift shop. Here, we met the museum’s creator. Friendly and clearly proud of his work, he spoke about the years of dedication that went into making the museum what it is today.

Revisiting at Our Own Pace

Once the official tour ended, we were invited to wander back through the exhibits at our own pace. This gave us time to linger over certain displays and take in details we might have missed the first time.

Outside, the museum grounds added to the peaceful atmosphere. A small waterfall flowed nearby, home to a few frogs whose quiet croaks blended with the sound of water. It felt far removed from the busy city streets, a little pocket of calm and reflection.

Final Thoughts

The Batumi Ethnographic Museum may not be the kind of place you spend an entire day exploring, but it offers something more personal: a heartfelt, handmade journey through Georgia’s culture and history. In a relatively short visit, you can see how people have lived, worked, and created in this part of the world, all presented with care and authenticity.

If you appreciate traditional crafts, rural heritage, or simply want a quieter, more meaningful stop during your time in Batumi, this museum is well worth a visit. For us, it was not just about the exhibits, it was about the personal touch behind them and the sense that history is kept alive here by someone with a creative passion and a love for his country. 

Other Ethnographic Museums in Georgia Worth Visiting

If the Batumi Ethnographic Museum sparks your curiosity, Georgia has several other ethnographic collections that offer even deeper dives into the country’s history and cultural traditions. Each has its own character, shaped by the people who maintain it and the region it represents.

The Open Air Museum of Ethnography, Tbilisi

Set on a hillside overlooking the city, the Tbilisi Open Air Museum is the largest ethnographic museum in Georgia. Spread across 52 hectares, it features more than 70 buildings relocated from different regions of the country, each representing a unique style of Georgian rural architecture. You can step inside traditional houses from Kakheti, Svaneti, and Adjara, explore water mills, wine cellars, and watchtowers, and see how their layouts reflect local climate, customs, and trade. The museum often hosts festivals, folk performances, and workshops, making it feel alive rather than static. Getting there is easy by taxi or bus, and it is best visited with plenty of time to wander the winding paths between exhibits.

Martvili Ethnographic Museum

Located in Samegrelo, the Martvili Ethnographic Museum is smaller than Tbilisi’s but deeply rooted in local heritage. Its collection includes farming tools, traditional Megrelian clothing, pottery, and domestic items that tell the story of everyday life in western Georgia. The museum also features archaeological finds from the region, some dating back thousands of years. Martvili is a great stop if you are exploring the Martvili Canyon or nearby monasteries.

Mestia’s Museum of History and Ethnography

High in the mountains of Svaneti, the Mestia Museum combines ethnographic exhibits with historical treasures. Alongside displays of traditional Svan clothing, tools, and religious artifacts, you will find medieval manuscripts, icons, and goldsmith work. The museum also covers the unique defensive towers that dot the Svaneti landscape, explaining their role in family and village life. Its location in one of Georgia’s most breathtaking regions makes the visit even more memorable.

Ozurgeti Ethnographic Museum

In the Guria region, the Ozurgeti Ethnographic Museum highlights the traditions of Georgia’s southwestern communities. You will find collections of folk musical instruments, ceramics, and woodwork, as well as reconstructions of Gurian homes and workshops. The museum often includes exhibits about tea production, which has been a major part of Guria’s economy since the 19th century. It is a worthwhile detour if you are traveling between Batumi and Tbilisi along the coast or through the hills.

Sighnaghi Ethnographic Museum

In the wine country of Kakheti, the Sighnaghi Museum blends ethnography with art. Its ethnographic section displays wine-making tools, embroidery, carpets, and household items from the region, giving insight into rural Kakhetian life. The rest of the museum houses fine art, including works by the famous Georgian painter Niko Pirosmani. The combination makes it a rich cultural stop in a town already known for its scenic views and wineries.

A Trip To Northern Cyprus' Legendary Famagusta

On our journey to Cyprus, we wanted to see some interesting sites. As I looked at the things to do, I came upon Northern Cyprus and Famagusta. I had vaguely remembered reading about it or seeing it somewhere. But I had no idea it was here, on the island of Cyprus. Yet, I thought that I would likely miss out on it. Going to Northern Cyprus seemed like a challenge. Generally, such places are hard to get into; you have to get visas in advance, and they can even be a bit difficult to get around. Yet, when walking through Larnaca, I saw that tour companies were offering tours to Famagusta, so I thought, "Why not?"

I had decided to enquire after we made our rounds around the island. In fact, by this time, we had actually gone into Northern Cyprus on foot, which was totally unexpected (more on that later). The cost was reasonable, and the idea of exploring an abandoned city was too good to pass up. I’ve always been fascinated by places frozen in time, where life once thrived but suddenly stopped. This trip would also include other key sites in Northern Cyprus, which made it even more appealing.

A few days earlier, we had ventured into Northern Cyprus to visit the capital, Nicosia. That city was unlike anywhere else I’ve been. It’s divided in two: half in the Republic of Cyprus and half in the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. Crossing the border on foot felt surreal, almost like stepping back into a different era. The shift in architecture, atmosphere, and even the smell of the streets reminded me of walking through parts of Türkiye or Egypt. I may even write a lil' post on that in the future, so stay tuned!

On the morning of our Famagusta tour, we set off early. The first stops included a beautiful monastery and ancient ruins that told stories of Cyprus’s deep, layered past. But the real anticipation was building for our main destination, a place that has fascinated urban explorers and historians for decades: Famagusta.

A Brief History of Famagusta

Famagusta’s history is a tapestry woven from centuries of conquest, trade, and conflict. Located on the eastern coast of Cyprus, it was once one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean. In the Middle Ages, especially under Lusignan rule in the 14th century, it was a bustling trade hub where merchants from Venice, Genoa, and beyond would gather. The wealth from this period funded the construction of grand churches, fortifications, and palatial buildings, many of which still stand..or rather, their shells do, in the modern city center.

The city’s fortunes began to change in the late 16th century when the Ottoman Empire seized control from the Venetians after a long siege. For centuries afterward, Famagusta remained under Ottoman administration, slowly declining in prominence but never losing its strategic importance.

In the modern era, especially during the 1960s and early 1970s, Famagusta experienced a golden age as a tourist destination. Its district of Varosha became the crown jewel of Cypriot tourism, attracting celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor and Brigitte Bardot. Luxury hotels lined the beach, fashionable boutiques filled the streets, and sunseekers came from across Europe to enjoy its turquoise waters.

But everything changed in 1974, when a coup in Cyprus backed by the Greek military junta prompted a military intervention by Turkey. Turkish forces advanced on Famagusta, and its Greek Cypriot residents fled in haste, leaving behind homes, cars, and personal belongings. The Varosha district was fenced off by the Turkish military and remained sealed for decades, becoming one of the world’s most famous ghost cities.

In recent years, parts of Varosha have been reopened to visitors under Turkish Cypriot control. But much of it remains off-limits, a haunting reminder of how politics and war can freeze a place in time.

Exploring the Inhabited Part of Famagusta

Our tour began in the still-living heart of Famagusta, a sharp contrast to the ghostly silence I knew awaited us later. This part of the city is vibrant and full of life. The streets are shaded by trees, lined with cafes, and punctuated by grand mosques that were once magnificent Gothic cathedrals.

One of the most striking examples is the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque, originally the Cathedral of Saint Nicholas. Its Gothic façade, with its pointed arches and delicate tracery, looks like it belongs in medieval France. Yet inside, the Christian iconography has long been replaced with Islamic features. This blend of cultures and histories is what makes Famagusta so fascinating.

We had some free time to wander through the cobblestone streets, peeking into artisan shops and enjoying the quiet hum of daily life. We grabbed a quick lunch, a thin-crust pizza at a small café near the central square. It was a nice way to relax and fill our hungry bellies! 

Entering Varosha – The Abandoned District

After exploring the main city, we boarded the bus and headed toward the reason I had signed up for the trip: Varosha. The approach is strange. You can see the tops of decaying high-rises looming over modern streets, like ghosts of another era. We were given a list of rules as we went inside. We passed a military checkpoint. They take security here pretty seriously. I was told this place just opened to tourism quite recently, so talk about being at the right place at the right time!

Once inside the open section, the scale of abandonment hits you immediately. Whole blocks of hotels, apartment buildings, and shops stand empty, windows shattered, paint peeling, balconies rusting. It’s eerily silent except for the wind and the distant sound of waves. The air feels heavy with memory, as if the place itself remembers the people who once filled it.

It reminded me strongly of my visit to Chernobyl a few years ago. It is that same sense of a place where life suddenly stopped. But here, the sea glitters just meters away, and the sunshine makes the decay somehow even more surreal. Unlike Chernobyl, entry into the buildings is strictly forbidden. Our guide explained that the structures are unstable and could collapse at any time.

Walking down the beachfront promenade, I could see how vast Varosha really is. The part open to the public is just a fraction of the district. As you step onto the beach, the view is almost absurd: turquoise waters, white sand, and people playing in the surf, all while behind you, the skyline is a jagged row of rotting high-rises. It’s beauty and desolation side by side.

Why Famagusta is Worth Visiting

Famagusta is more than just a stop for those curious about abandoned places. It’s a city where layers of history are visible on every street corner, where Gothic cathedrals became mosques, where medieval walls still stand watch over the harbor, and where a modern ghost city whispers about the fragility of peace.

For me, the most striking thing was how normal life continues right next to such haunting emptiness. In one direction, children play, fishermen cast lines, and shops sell fresh pastries. On the other side, there’s nothing but silence and decay. That juxtaposition stays with you long after you leave.

Visiting Famagusta is not just about seeing something unusual. It’s about feeling the passage of time, the effects of conflict, and the resilience of a city that has endured centuries of change.

10 Interesting Things to See in and Around Famagusta

If you are in the area, check out some of the nearby sites. 

1. Varosha Beach
This is the most striking part of Famagusta. The beach itself is gorgeous, with golden sand and crystal-clear water. Standing here offers the ultimate contrast — the beautiful Mediterranean ahead of you and the abandoned skyline of Varosha looming behind. You can walk along the designated paths that run beside the ruined hotels and peer into a world that has been left untouched for nearly 50 years. It’s both relaxing and deeply thought-provoking.

2. Othello Castle
Named after Shakespeare’s tragic character (who was supposedly inspired by a Venetian governor of Cyprus), Othello Castle is a fortress built by the Lusignans and later reinforced by the Venetians. Its thick walls, moat, and towers make it an impressive sight. Inside, you can explore courtyards, staircases, and views over the city. History lovers will appreciate its strategic role in defending the harbor. It’s also a great spot for photography, especially during golden hour.

3. Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque
Once the grand Gothic Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, this structure was converted into a mosque during Ottoman rule. The architecture is stunning, with soaring pointed arches, intricate stonework, and a façade that feels straight out of medieval Europe. Inside, the Gothic design blends with Islamic elements, creating a unique fusion. It’s an active mosque, so visitors should dress respectfully.

4. Venetian Walls of Famagusta
These massive fortifications completely encircle the old city and are among the best-preserved medieval walls in the Mediterranean. Built to withstand heavy artillery, they feature bastions, gates, and a dry moat. Walking along them gives you a sense of the city’s former importance and defensive strength. You can enter through the Land Gate and follow the paths along the walls for sweeping views.

5. Namik Kemal Dungeon and Museum
This small but fascinating museum is located in the building where the famous Turkish poet Namik Kemal was imprisoned in the 19th century. The exhibits tell his story and provide insight into Ottoman-era life in Cyprus. The stone cells are atmospheric, and the museum is a quick but memorable stop for those interested in literature and history.

6. Saint Barnabas Monastery
Located just outside Famagusta, this monastery dates back to the 5th century and is dedicated to Saint Barnabas, the patron saint of Cyprus. The complex includes a church, cloisters, and an archaeological museum housing artifacts from ancient Salamis and the surrounding area. The grounds are peaceful, and the blend of history and spirituality makes it a must-visit.

7. Salamis Ruins
An ancient city dating back to the 11th century BC, Salamis was once the most important city-state in Cyprus. Today, you can wander among its Roman-era remains, including a gymnasium, theater, and intricate mosaics. The site is expansive, so take your time exploring. The combination of history and scenic coastal location is unforgettable.

8. Palm Tree-Lined Streets of Modern Famagusta
While the ghost city gets most of the attention, the inhabited part of Famagusta is charming in its own right. Stroll down its palm-shaded boulevards, enjoy local cafes, and browse small shops selling crafts and souvenirs. This area provides a vibrant contrast to the melancholy of Varosha. I was pleasantly surprised by how lovely this place is! 

9. The Sea Gate (Porta del Mare)
This ornate Venetian gate once served as the main entrance from the port into the walled city. Decorated with the winged lion of Saint Mark, it’s a reminder of Famagusta’s Venetian heritage. Standing here, you can imagine the bustling maritime trade that once passed through.

10. Glapsides Beach
Just north of the city, this beach offers a more traditional seaside experience than Varosha. It’s popular with locals and tourists alike, with calm waters, soft sand, and beachside taverns serving fresh seafood. If you want to swim without the haunting backdrop of abandoned buildings, this is the place to go.

Welcome To Delhi: Staying in Paharganj

This was my third time to Delhi, but I don't think that time number 2 counts, as it was just an overnighter on the way from Chennai to Nepal. Nepal, now that was a trip that I'll have to talk about in future posts.

On our first trip to Delhi, my wife, daughter, and I traveled with my sister.

After a bus groping, we were greeted by the meanest group of transgender people I have ever met. In Thailand, transgender people are super fun, friendly, and so outgoing. These folks were not (of course, I can't speak for all transgender people in India! That would be unfair). They got a bit mean and manhandled us. It hurt! We barely escaped in an autorickshaw (or tuk-tuk) thanks to an overzealous driver who was hellbent on ripping us off.

Third Time’s a Charm-ish

This trip started quite a bit smoother, thanks to the modern Delhi metro system that connects the airport to the area where we were staying. It is known as Paharganj. This is the same neighborhood as we stayed in before when we visited Delhi for the very first time way back in 2016. Paharganj is a crazy labyrinth: budget hotels piled atop one another, alleyways that seem to defy geometry, and motorbike riders that can't keep their hands off the horn. It’s so loud you can visibly feel your sanity eroding. It's where I learned to keep my AirPods in my ears at all times. However, Sephie could not stand the noise, so I gave them to her, which helped a LOT. Families of monkeys swing from wires overhead while cows wander the streets. Let's just say this place is a world away from what many have ever experienced. 

Let's Talk About Paharganj, Shall We?

The Market and Food Scene

Walking through Main Bazaar, the crowd wraps around you like a clingy octopus. Shops sell everything you'll see on the rest of your time in India. These include but are not limited to: tea blends, leather goods, harem pants,  religious books, spices, and odd trinkets. Street food pours out of every possible crevice. I'm talking about plate after plate of momos, endless dosa, vats filled with dripping curry, and a bevy of fried things I can’t even name. You’re bombarded with colors, smells, and sounds until your brain staggers. I could not help but try everything that I could get my vegetarian hands on. Lucky for me, India is a vegetarian paradise! 

The food here is confusingly great. At Sitaram Diwan Chand, you can inhale legendary chole bhature for a literal buck or two. The flakes of fried bread soak in curry so well they practically get married (and who doesn't love an Indian wedding?). Absolutely worth doubling down the cholesterol for. Meanwhile, at Multani Dhanda’s kachaori corner (“Multan Moth Bhandar, Gali No. 6”), you're served insanely savory fried pockets that locals swear are the best in Delhi. Then there’s the momo fiasco: we once got the wrong order, and were charged twice for the wrong dumplings. I just smiled and let it be, because arguing over momos is not how I choose to channel my inner Gandhi.

We also liked the Krishna Rooftop Cafe (pictured above). Just be careful not to hit your head on the way to the top. Lucky for us, we got a seat on the rooftop balcony both times we visited. The views are spectacular! You can see the city light up at sunset and the throngs of people on the streets below. The food is good, but a bit more expensive than other places (that view is going to cost you). Overall, I recommend it. 

If you are into cleanliness, look away. During an early morning walk, we saw people mixing pots of curry by hand. You kind of just have to vibe with that here. You'll likely get sick, and that's part of the adventure. 

Hidden Gems and Alleyway Charms

You walk past the noise, step into Tilak Gali behind Imperial Cinema, and suddenly you’re in an alternate reality. Crumbling havelis hint at old world grandeur, with brick walls murmuring stories of forgotten Delhi. Jackson’s Bookstore has been hawking pre-owned wisdom for forty years. You'll find tarot decks, philosophy books, and Beat poetry, all for the price of cheap chai. The owner knows where every hidden stash is tucked. If your soul wants off the main road, this is your exit ramp.

Then there’s Qadam Sharif, a tiny 14th-century shrine tucked into a Paharganj alley. Built by Feroz Shah Tughlaq for his late son, the mausoleum now houses a mosque, madrasa, and a quiet dignity that few who get here appreciate. You’ll need to pause and listen. You may hear the wood creaking as the foot traffic spills in to whisper prayers. It’s a rare breath of stillness.

What People Say

Travelers often wax poetic about how “authentically chaotic” Paharganj is, calling it a “backpacker’s paradise” and a “raw collage of old and new.” One TripAdvisor review called it a fascinating maze of bargains. A Redditor, however, bluntly warned: “Paharganj is filled with weird people and crackheads. Be careful.” Another described being scammed via bogus menus and extortionate taxis. There’s a fair bit of fear, not unfair, but for me, it’s part of the adrenaline. Plus, scandalously cheap goods make it a fun festival of shopping bliss. 

What Makes Paharganj Extra Special

You’ll find calmer places later in your trip. Goa can do lazy sunsets; Rishikesh offers spiritual peace. Paharganj gives you visceral, chaotic life. It assaults your senses, makes you bargain like your life depends on it, fills your belly with spicy goodness, and slaps the “You’re in India” sticker firmly on your soul. Love it or hate it, this place never lets you slide into bland touristism.

Ten Things to See Around Paharganj 

1. Red Fort

Red Fort is an unmistakable symbol of India’s Mughal past, built by Shah Jahan in the 17th century. Its red sandstone walls, majestic gates, and sprawling courtyards are visually stunning and monumentally historic. You can stand where warriors once strutted, feeling the weight of centuries. The museum inside holds relics and Mughal-era artifacts. At night, the sound-and-light show brings the fort’s history to vivid, almost kitschy life.

2. Chandni Chowk

Right next to Red Fort, Chandni Chowk is Old Delhi personified. It is chaotic, fragrant, hyper-colored, and utterly captivating. Rickshaw rides through the narrow lanes are still the best way to absorb the madness. You’ll munch your way through paratha, jalebi, jalapeno chai, and possibly an identity crisis. The shops sell everything from electronics to street jewelry to wedding saris. Every step you take is layered with history, spice, and stamina-testing crowds.

3. Gauri Shankar Temple

A short stumble from Paharganj is the Gauri Shankar Temple, nearly 800 years old and dedicated to Shiva. Its simplicity strikes you: not blinged-out, not ornamental, but centered and austere in its stone elegance. You can meditate in relative quiet, beneath the old lingam carved from black stone. Old devotees move about, exuding calm, reciting prayers. It’s a spiritual stop that catches your breathing, tensing heart, and overloaded senses.

4. Qadam Sharif

This 14th-century dargah was originally made as a tomb for Feroz Shah Tughlaq’s son, later boxed into a complex with a mosque and madrasa. Its battered walls and heavy gates feel like a secret handshake from the past. Inside, the air is thick with prayers and calm. Few tourists go here, so it’s a rare lull of history and quiet. You’ll feel the solemn hush of centuries shifting softly beneath your feet.

5. Ramakrishna Mission Ashram

Founded in 1927 by Swami Vivekananda’s followers, this ashram is an oasis of disciplined calm. Inside, worship sessions are quiet; the library is enormous and scholarly, filled with philosophy texts and spiritual guidance. The reading hall invites you to slow down. It's like emotionally unplugging from the marketplace next door. The ashram’s aura is centered, considerate, and calming. Your soul will thank you for stopping here.

6. Jama Masjid

One of the largest mosques in India, Jama Masjid’s red sandstone grandeur is impossible to miss, even from Paharganj. You climb steps into a vast courtyard that holds 25,000 worshippers. Inside, ornate marble mihrabs and lofty minarets swallow you in scale. You can rent a robe (if needed), and the view from the minaret is dizzying, a rooftop Disneyland of Old Delhi. It’s powerful, spiritual, and atmospheric. I had visited this during my first time and we just missed it the second time, sadly. 

7. Naya Mandir (Jain Temple)

Built in 1807, this is one of the first Jain temples with a shikhara allowed under Mughal rule. It was a bold architectural act. The marble interiors glow in candlelight, revealing ornate carvings and manuscripts. It’s quiet, ornate and completely different from the chaos outside. Devotees recite softly; the temple’s clarity calms your mind like a mental reset. Quite surreal in contrast to the filthy street corners outside. I just love such juxtapositions! 

8. Agrasen ki Baoli

A hidden stepwell near Connaught Place, this 14th-century water reservoir is architecturally neat and peaceful. Stone steps descend into cool quiet, away from car horns and bargain noise. Filmmakers love the shadows and symmetry, and you will too. Legend says the air here is charged with echoes of history, allowing for introspection, or just stalking sweet Insta shots. Ghost hunters also claim to feel things. Spooky or serene, either vibe works. 

9. Garden of Five Senses

About 20 acres of curated peace in Saket, not far from Paharganj. This garden loops through Mughal garden themes, bamboo courts, solar-powered installations, and lily pools. It's an assault on your senses in a good way: smells, sights, textures collide in natural harmony. The Mayan Labna Arch replica is stunning and surprises you mid-flowerbed. Vendors sell chai in tiny clay cups as you stroll sculpted paths. It’s a perfect place to reboot the soul after market madness.

10. Yogmaya Temple

Near the Qutb complex, this temple is among Delhi’s few pre-Sultanate era survivors. Dedicated to Yogmaya, an avatar of Krishna’s illusory energy, it feels ancient, sacred, and resilient. Stone walls, quiet courtyards, and old trees murmur stories of Aurangzeb’s efforts to erase it. Every Navratri, the place bursts with devotional energy. Visiting here feels like stepping through time, to a place that history nearly erased but didn’t.

In the End...

Paharganj is a sensory symphony of chaos, aromas, scams, cheap eats, haggling, and secrets. But buried within that chaos are bright treasures that include old temples, Mughal stone, hidden book alleys, peaceful ashrams, and beautiful gardens. It's dirty and outrageous and stirring and unforgettable. It’s a messy love letter to India’s soul, and I’ll keep going back for the messy, glorious confusion it brings.

Welcome to Delhi!