Tucked away in the misty mountains of Georgia’s Adjara region lies a remote, crumbling fortress shrouded in history and fog: Khikhani Fortress. It's not the kind of place you just stumble across on a weekend walk. It takes planning, stamina, and a fair amount of adventurous spirit. But if you’re up for a real challenge with unforgettable views, it’s absolutely worth it!
Here’s the story of our day trip to Khikhani:
Our group was formed through one of the Expat Facebook forums in Batumi. A few of us had posted about wanting to explore more of Georgia’s less-touristy spots, and before long, we had a group chat going, a date picked, and a plan in motion.
We decided to rent a van together, splitting the cost to make the trip more affordable (50 lari each). The van gave us room to relax, store snacks, and prepare ourselves for the long day ahead. We made two stops on the way there. The first had a bathroom that was not up to par for the ladies, so we stopped again at a restaurant where I bought a coffee. I regretted that choice as I got back in the van and we went off-road.
The Long Road to Khikhani
The drive from Batumi took about three hours each way. While the roads start off smooth, they get progressively rougher as you head deeper into the mountains. Prepare for switchbacks, potholes, and breathtaking scenery that will have you reaching for your camera every few minutes.
One thing we had read about was the border checkpoint along the way. It is a small station where the road passes near the Turkish border. We had to stop and do paperwork for about 30 to 45 minutes, mostly just passport checks and vehicle registration. It wasn’t a hassle, but it did slow us down a bit.
Tip: bring your passport and give yourself plenty of extra time. There are three pages of questions.
The Wrong Turn
Even with Google Maps, mountain trails can be tricky. When we arrived near the start of the hike, we mistakenly followed the riverbed trail, which seemed promising at first. After walking quite a ways and realizing we were heading in the wrong direction, we had to backtrack. It added about half an hour to our journey, but at least it gave us some bonus nature time.
Eventually, we found the correct trailhead, which snakes up through forest and alpine meadows toward the fortress.
The Climb to Khikhani
Calling it a “hike” is a bit of an understatement. This is a serious mountain climb, and the last stretch is especially steep and unforgiving. If you’re not in decent shape, you’ll struggle. And even if you are, you’ll definitely feel it in your legs.
Out of our group, three people turned back about halfway up. The combination of altitude, mud, and rocky terrain was just too much. But for the rest of us, it became a personal challenge, one that came with plenty of breaks, shared snacks, and motivational words.
The final 30 minutes are the most difficult, and you’ll need to pace yourself carefully. Take it slow, stay hydrated, and be patient. There’s no shame in resting often.
Be aware of old wires that cross the trail from what was once a tram line. They’re rusted and easy to trip over if you’re not paying attention, especially when you're tired near the top.
The Fortress in the Fog
Finally, we reached the summit. The fog was thick, swirling around us like something out of a movie. It gave the entire fortress a surreal, haunted atmosphere. Think ancient stone towers peeking out from the mist, as if time had forgotten them.
Khikhani Fortress dates back to the 13th century and was used by Georgian kings as a strategic military post. Even in ruins, it commands awe. There are a couple of towers still standing, and one of them can be climbed with care. Inside, you’ll find narrow stone steps and tiny lookout slits carved into the walls. Just standing in that space, you feel the weight of centuries pass through you.
Nearby, there’s also an old wooden house, likely used by shepherds or previous campers. It's weathered but offers basic shelter. Some people camp overnight here, though you’ll want to bring your own gear and be ready for cold, damp conditions. The floor boards are caving in, so seriously be careful!
The View From Above
Although we were greeted by fog at the top, there were moments when the clouds parted, revealing absolutely jaw-dropping views of the valley below. Sharp peaks, green ridges, and miles of wilderness stretched out around us. The best part was the thousands of wildflowers that created a heaven-like atmosphere up here. It was truly beautiful beyond words!
The wind whistled through the towers, the only sound in the otherwise silent landscape. It’s easy to see why someone would choose to build a fortress here. It feels like the edge of the world.
Things to Know Before You Go
Here are some quick tips and tourist info for visiting Khikhani Fortress:
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Distance from Batumi: ~3 hours by car (one way).
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Recommended vehicle: 4WD or a rented van with high clearance.
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Passport: Required for the border checkpoint en route.
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Time to hike: 1.5 to 2.5 hours up, depending on your fitness.
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Difficulty: Hard – steep and rugged terrain. Not suitable for small kids or those with mobility issues.
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Gear to bring:
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Hiking shoes with a good grip
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Water and snacks
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Layers (mountain weather changes fast)
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Hiking poles (optional but helpful)
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Best season to visit: Late spring to early fall. In winter or early spring, the trail may be inaccessible due to snow or mud.
Climbing to Khikhani Fortress is not for the faint of heart, but it’s one of those rare experiences that stays with you long after your legs have recovered. It’s not just the views, the ruins, or the fog. It’s the camaraderie, the sense of achievement, and the feeling of being somewhere few tourists ever reach.
If you’re in Batumi and looking for a true off-the-beaten-path adventure, gather a group, rent a van, and make the climb. Just bring your sense of humor, your endurance, and maybe a snack to share with new friends. I recommend something hearty, as you will be hungry when you get to the top!
Tucked high in the mountains of Adjara, near the border with Turkey and overlooking deep valleys and ancient paths, Khikhani Fortress is one of the most awe-inspiring and mysterious historical landmarks in Georgia. Situated at an elevation of about 2,200 meters above sea level, this medieval stronghold is steeped in centuries of history, political power, and religious importance.
Origins and Strategic Importance
Khikhani Fortress is believed to have been constructed in the 12th to 13th centuries, during the height of Georgia’s Golden Age under Queen Tamar and her successors. Its location, perched on a high, rugged peak in the Khulo Municipality, suggests its use as a strategic military outpost, guarding the mountain passes and trade routes between what is now southwestern Georgia and the Ottoman Empire (modern-day Turkey).
Due to its elevation and natural defenses, the fortress was extremely difficult to conquer. The area around the fortress served as a defensive line against invaders, especially during times of conflict between local Georgian principalities and the encroaching Ottoman Empire during the 15th to 18th centuries.
Religious and Cultural Role
In addition to its military significance, Khikhani was also a spiritual and cultural center. Within its walls stood a church, water cisterns, residential areas, and guard towers, making it something of a self-contained citadel. The fortress is closely associated with the Jakeli family, a prominent noble family in the history of Adjara and Samtskhe-Javakheti. One of the towers on site is thought to have been a residence or retreat of the Jakeli lords.
During the 16th and 17th centuries, when the Ottomans began taking control over large parts of southwestern Georgia, including Adjara, the fortress served as a last line of defense and a symbol of resistance against Ottoman expansion. Eventually, the region fell under Ottoman control, but the ruins of Khikhani Fortress remained a testament to local resilience and sovereignty.
Decline and Rediscovery
As geopolitical lines changed and wars subsided, the fortress lost its strategic importance and was slowly abandoned. Nature began to reclaim the mountaintop, and Khikhani faded from active memory, becoming a place whispered about in local legend and remembered only by shepherds, hunters, and the families who lived in the nearby villages.
In recent years, due to the rise in eco-tourism and interest in Georgia’s medieval heritage, Khikhani Fortress has seen a resurgence in popularity. Local historians and tourism organizations have begun efforts to preserve the site and make it more accessible, although its remote location and strenuous hike remain part of the challenge and charm.
✨ Historical Highlights
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Built: 12th–13th century
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Height: 2,200 meters above sea level
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Main purpose: Military defense, noble retreat, spiritual refuge
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Key families: Jakeli family (nobles of Adjara and Samtskhe)
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Key features: Towers, church ruins, stone walls, hidden mountain trails
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Important periods: Georgian Golden Age, Ottoman expansion
Travel and Reflection
Visiting Khikhani Fortress today is more than just a hike. It’s a step back in time. As you climb the steep paths and take in the same views that soldiers, monks, and nobles once did, you get a real sense of the weight of history embedded in the rocks. The struggle to reach the top mirrors the fortress’s own struggle to withstand the tides of empire and erosion.
The silence at the summit, especially when the fog rolls in and shrouds the ruined towers, makes it easy to imagine how isolated and important this place must have felt centuries ago. It’s not just a photo opportunity. It’s an emotional experience, and a powerful reminder of Georgia’s complex history and indomitable spirit.
