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Saturday, June 28, 2025

A Day Trip to Sumela Monastery and Karaca Cave from Trabzon


During our recent visit to Trabzon from Batumi, we decided to spend our second day exploring the nearby mountains and historical landmarks. As we were a group of five, and too late for the morning tours, we rented a private van and driver for five people. This made everything super easy. The total cost was around 1000 Turkish lira, which, when split between us, was very affordable for a full-day tour.

The Journey to Sumela Monastery

The highlight of the trip was the iconic Sumela Monastery, an awe-inspiring structure clinging to the side of a cliff in the Pontic Mountains, just south of Trabzon. The road to the monastery winds through lush green valleys and thick forests. Truly, absolutely beautiful scenery the entire way.

We were told that the tour price didn’t include admission tickets, so we had to pay an extra 20 euros in cash to get into the site. This is important to keep in mind. There was no card option, so bring enough cash with you (they took Lira, even though the price is in Euros for some reason). 

From the base, a shuttle van takes you up the mountain to the entrance of the monastery. It would be a very long and steep walk otherwise, so the shuttle is definitely worth it. When we arrived, the monastery was packed with visitors, but the sight of the building carved into the rock face was absolutely worth braving the crowd.

The History and Importance of Sumela

Sumela Monastery is believed to have been founded in the 4th century, making it over 1,600 years old. Built by Greek Orthodox monks, it was dedicated to the Virgin Mary and served as a spiritual retreat and pilgrimage site for centuries. The monastery was abandoned in the 1920s, but it has since become a symbol of both Christian heritage and the rich cultural tapestry of the region. Its remote location and dramatic architecture make it one of the most famous landmarks in northeastern Turkey.

The Views and Surroundings

Just before you reach the monastery, there’s a small church perched at a viewpoint that offers a perfect panoramic photo opportunity of the monastery across the valley. The church itself was not open, but the view from outside alone was stunning. It really was a postcard moment that really captures the magic of the area.

Karaca Cave and a Shift in Scenery

After exploring Sumela, we drove over the mountains to Karaca Cave (Karaca Mağarası), located in a completely different landscape. As soon as we crossed the mountain ridge, the scenery changed dramatically. The climate became drier and more arid, and the terrain shifted to rocky hills and pine-covered slopes. 

Karaca Cave itself is an underground wonder, filled with dripping stalactites, stalagmites, and natural formations that look almost otherworldly. Entry was inexpensive, and there was a cozy place nearby to grab lunch and rest before heading to our final stop.

The Glass Platform Viewpoint

On the way back to Trabzon, our driver brought us to a viewpoint with a glass-floored observation deck that extended out over the valley. It was a great final stop, offering breathtaking views of the green hills and deep gorges below

An Amazing Day in Northeastern Turkiye! 

This day trip was absolutely worth it. Not just as a sightseeing experience, but as a chance to step into the natural and historical heart of this part of Turkiye. While many travelers pass through Trabzon to extend visas or as a stopover, taking the time to explore these surrounding gems made our trip truly unforgettable.

If you're in Trabzon and considering what to do with your time, renting a van or joining a tour and doing this loop is highly recommended. From the cliffside monasteries to the depths of ancient caves, it’s a journey through both time and terrain that we’ll never forget.

Friday, June 27, 2025

A Weekend in Trabzon: A Quick Getaway from Batumi


Let's talk about my recent trip to Trabzon a bit, shall we? This place is definitely one you should have on your radar. It's an amazing day trip, and if you like Turkish culture, beautiful mosques, markets, and the like, this is a place to check out. 

If you're living in Batumi or just passing through, one of the easiest and most rewarding trips you can take is across the border to Trabzon, Turkey. Whether you're looking to extend your Georgian visa or just want a change of scenery, Trabzon offers a vibrant, affordable escape filled with culture, history, and stunning landscapes.

Getting There: From Batumi to Trabzon

We organized the trip with a couple of friends we had met through an expat forum in Batumi. The process was much easier than we imagined. We took a taxi to the Sarpi border, which is the main crossing point between Georgia and Turkiye. You can also take a marshrutka (shared minibus), but the taxi felt more convenient since we were in a small group.

The border crossing at Sarpi was smooth. On the Turkish side, just a short walk away from the crossing, there's a mosque where shared buses leave for Trabzon. For just around $12, we were on our way to the city center in a comfortable, air-conditioned shuttle. The entire journey, from Batumi to downtown Trabzon, took about 4–5 hours, border crossing included.

Where We Stayed

When we arrived, we had booked the Sulduz Hotel, which is conveniently located in the center of Trabzon. To our surprise, the hotel was undergoing renovations, and the staff kindly offered to transfer us to a 5-star hotel near the airport for the same price. While that was tempting, we were set on experiencing Trabzon from the heart of the city. We declined, and the Sulduz ended up being just fine for us. The location couldn’t have been better. Everything was within walking distance.

First Impressions: A Mini-Istanbul

We were immediately struck by how bustling and developed Trabzon was. It felt like a miniature Istanbul: A city of shops, mosques, tea houses, and endless energy. The city was much bigger than we expected, yet still felt manageable.

There were shops everywhere. From brand-name clothing stores and boutique handicraft sellers to street vendors selling fresh pomegranates, roasted chestnuts, and all manner of Turkish sweets. We spent hours wandering the central streets, stopping for Turkish coffee and baklava, and chatting with friendly shopkeepers. Near the hotel was an old market that reminded me of the markets in Egypt and Istanbul. 

The Heart of the City: Meydan Park

Meydan Park, the main city square, is a beautifully maintained space filled with fountains, colorful flowers, and palm trees. It’s the beating heart of Trabzon, and a great place to people-watch, relax with a tea, or plan your next adventure.

We saw families enjoying the cool breeze, teenagers playing music, and older men gathered in the shade playing chess or reading the newspaper. The square had a very welcoming, communal atmosphere, and we returned to it several times during our trip. There was also a very helpful tourist information center where we got information about how to get around town and what sites were located nearby. 

Sunset at the Boztepe Tea Garden

That evening, we walked up the hill to a tea garden with a panoramic view over the city. Watching the sunset over the Black Sea while sipping Turkish tea was one of the highlights of our visit. The walk uphill was gentle, and the tea garden was filled with locals, which is always a good sign. The atmosphere was peaceful, and the view was absolutely stunning.

Day Two: Exploring the Surroundings

On our second day, we rented a van with a driver and took a day tour to see some of Trabzon’s most iconic sights.

  • Sumela Monastery was the highlight. Carved into the side of a cliff in the Pontic Mountains, this ancient Greek Orthodox monastery is as impressive as it is mysterious. The drive up is scenic, winding through forests and past waterfalls.

  • We also visited a limestone cave, where cool air and dramatic stalactites offered a welcome break from the sun.

  • The tour included a few other stops at viewpoints, local food stalls, and traditional villages. Overall, it was well worth the cost, and we got to see a side of Trabzon that most people miss if they only stay in the center.

Why You Should Go

For many foreigners in Georgia, a trip to Turkey is often seen as a necessary visa run, but Trabzon is worth visiting in its own right.

  • It’s an affordable getaway.

  • The food is quite good. Try the pide (Turkish pizza), fresh fish from the Black Sea, and of course, Turkish delight. Our favorite was Çiğ köfte (pronounced chee kof-teh). It is a traditional Turkish dish that translates to “raw meatball,” though the modern, widely available version is typically meatless and made from bulgur, tomato paste, spices, and herbs. It has a spicy, tangy, and savory flavor, and is served cold, often in lettuce leaves with a squeeze of lemon or pomegranate molasses. 

  • Shopping is abundant and surprisingly cheap.

  • The combination of sea and mountain views gives the city a unique charm.

  • And the hospitality of the locals was one of the best parts of the experience.

Travel Tips:

  • Currency: Turkish lira. Exchange money at the border or use ATMs in Trabzon.

  • Language: Turkish is widely spoken. English is hit or miss. Google Translate is your friend.

  • Wi-Fi/Sim: Turkish SIM cards are available, but most cafes and hotels offer free Wi-Fi.

  • Visa Info: Check your country's rules, but most visitors can enter Turkey visa-free or with an e-visa.

Final Thoughts

Whether you’re living in Georgia long-term or just passing through, taking a few days to explore Trabzon is something you won’t regret. From the bustling bazaars and mountain monasteries to the simple pleasure of tea at sunset, Trabzon offers a beautiful blend of culture, convenience, and adventure.

It’s more than just a visa run. It’s a trip into the soul of northeastern Turkey.

Monday, June 9, 2025

Sameba Monastery: A Hidden Gem High Above Batumi


Now, this is a place we have been jonesing to visit since we moved here, and recently I got the chance. You see, my wife, daughter, and I had tried to visit the Sameba Monastery last fall. After a taxi ride to the top, we found that it was closed for the day. We took advantage of the situation by having a picnic lunch up top and then walking down through the neighborhood that straddles the hills high above Batumi

Yet, we had always wanted to return to see the church when it was open. When I was teaching, my students had told me about it and said it was worth the trip. So, we decided to try again, and this time we had quite an adventure!

If you're looking for a peaceful escape from the bustle of Batumi, the Sameba Monastery (also known as the Holy Trinity Church) is the perfect destination. Tucked high up in the hills overlooking the city, this Georgian Orthodox monastery offers stunning panoramic views, serene surroundings, and a taste of local religious heritage. And all of this is just a short ride away from the city center.

Our Unexpected Tesla Adventure

Our journey started with a failed attempt to catch a marshrutka, the local minibuses that usually go toward the outskirts of Batumi. After getting a bit lost trying to figure out which one to take, we eventually ordered a taxi on Bolt (the local rideshare app). To our surprise, we were upgraded to a sleek black Tesla. This was my first time riding in one, and what a ride it was!

As we ascended the steep hills and winding dirt roads, the driver grew visibly nervous. Near the top, while attempting to turn around, he accidentally backed into a building, damaging the structure, but thankfully not his car. He was visibly shaken and half-joked that it would be a sin not to give him more than the $3 the ride had cost. We gave him a tip, and soon a few other people approached him, hoping for a ride back into town. That ride alone made the trip memorable.

A Monastery in the Clouds

The Sameba Monastery is perched on a hill roughly 8 km from the city, making it accessible yet remote enough to feel like a true getaway. Unlike many tourist sites, there’s no fee to enter and no crowds to contend with. Only a couple of other visitors were there when we arrived, making the experience feel intimate and peaceful.

Photographs are not allowed inside the monastery. Some monasteries allow photos of the interiors (about half in my experience), so be sure to check. Sometimes you'll see people being sneaky and taking pictures anyway. As a guest, I feel that this is not something I personally want to do.

The interior is beautifully adorned with traditional Orthodox icons, and outside, the views of Batumi and the Black Sea are simply breathtaking. Surrounded by forested hills and mountain air, it’s a perfect place for reflection or quiet admiration.

Historical Significance

Sameba Monastery was built in the 1990s, making it relatively new compared to many of Georgia’s ancient churches. Despite its age, it follows traditional Georgian ecclesiastical architecture, with stone walls, arched windows, and a domed roof. It serves as a functioning religious site and is important to the local Christian Orthodox community.

The Descent: Still an Adventure

Rather than call another taxi, we decided to hike down, retracing our path back to the nearest marshrutka stop. It was a scenic, peaceful walk, though a bit challenging at times due to steep terrain. We waited at a stop for about half an hour, hoping to catch a marshrutka back into town, but none came. Eventually, we found our way back, but the return trip was part of what made the day so unforgettable.

How to Get There

  • By Taxi: The easiest and most comfortable option is to take a Bolt taxi from the city center (expect to pay about $3-5). Be aware that the roads get rough near the top.

  • By Marshrutka: Some marshrutkas pass near the area, but stops are not well-marked and can be confusing for non-locals.

  • By Hike: For the adventurous, hiking to the monastery from the lower village is possible and scenic, but steep.

Final Thoughts

Sameba Monastery is one of those places that captures the spirit of Georgia, a place that is beautiful, spiritual, and a little wild. Whether you're seeking silence, panoramic views, or just an off-the-beaten-path experience, it's absolutely worth the journey.

Just be ready for a few surprises along the way.

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